Glueing track down
Glueing track down
I've relaid a section of track following a point replacement. I'm limited for space (in the loft) so this relaid section is quite hard to work on. I'm struggling to pin it and thinking, reluctantly, PVA glue is the only answer.
Has anyone done this please? What are your views on glueing when pinning is just too difficult?
Has anyone done this please? What are your views on glueing when pinning is just too difficult?
- Walkingthedog
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Re: Glueing track down
Hello aj, nice to hear from you again. PVA will be fine and of course it will be fairly easy to lift the track if you need to do so.
Nurse, the screens!
Re: Glueing track down
As difficult as it may be, pinning would allow adjustment if you don’t get it ‘right’, while glueing would be even harder to undo if you get it wrong.
I know that contradicts Brian’s advice but if this section is as awkward as it appears to be then the simplest fixing method has to be best.
You’ve struggled with this area of track for months now - makes me think that the trackplan needs changing to better suit the location.
I know that contradicts Brian’s advice but if this section is as awkward as it appears to be then the simplest fixing method has to be best.
You’ve struggled with this area of track for months now - makes me think that the trackplan needs changing to better suit the location.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
- Walkingthedog
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Re: Glueing track down
I would also prefer pins Steve. I use Gaugemaster pins, very sharp with a nice flat head, a bit like me, and push them in with pliers. Depends of course what the baseboard is made of.
Nurse, the screens!
Re: Glueing track down
Thanks for the thoughts. This problem occurred because of relaying that troublesome point. I knew further down the line, literally, I may need to replace track. It's much better now and joins really well. I've done a slow run over it with a locomotive - all is well.
The only remaining issue is securing it down. I don't have enough room under the eaves to tap the pins in straight. The base is MDF - sundela was too dear.
Any major redesign of layout would see me lose the loop and only be able to go end to end. I could knock through to next door - that would create more space, or throw out everything that's stored in the loft!
Sometimes you've got the space you've got.
The only remaining issue is securing it down. I don't have enough room under the eaves to tap the pins in straight. The base is MDF - sundela was too dear.
Any major redesign of layout would see me lose the loop and only be able to go end to end. I could knock through to next door - that would create more space, or throw out everything that's stored in the loft!
Sometimes you've got the space you've got.
Re: Glueing track down
MDF is a bu##er to pin unless you predrill the hole.
An Archimedes drill will get into a space with restricted clearance - drill in about 75% of the length of the pin so you only need to lightly tap the pin home.
An Archimedes drill will get into a space with restricted clearance - drill in about 75% of the length of the pin so you only need to lightly tap the pin home.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
Re: Glueing track down
Thanks Steve. That's what I have been doing - drilling down and then pinning. Access is the issue here because of the eaves in the loft.
I'm told Gaugemaster pins are sharper than Peco which I have been using.
I'm told Gaugemaster pins are sharper than Peco which I have been using.
Re: Glueing track down
Copydex or other latex based glue or I have previously used a spray can of yuk used to mount photos as it allows repositioning before it grabs. I think it was called oddly Photomount.
- Walkingthedog
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Re: Glueing track down
Good stuff but very strong. I tried it once and destroyed a section of track when I tried to lift it. Ideal if you know the track will not be moved.
Nurse, the screens!
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