Baseboard for a new layout

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mick1219
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Baseboard for a new layout

#1

Post by mick1219 »

Age as finally crept up fingers and eyesight not what they once were so the end as come for the N gauge layout in the small box room it only measured 6 X 6
So a site meeting was called for with swmbo and permission was granted to develope the loft (terrace house) it's already got a floor so with the help of the builder it's going to be fitted out with walls ceiling insulation velux window electrics etc and the most important part is a fixed staircase, been in touch with the council and all OK don't need planning permission this will not be a bedroom
The new layout will be OO so the first problem is the baseboards the usable space will be approx 14 x 9 feet and the layout will go round the wall with a centre space
So my question is I'm thinking of making the tops fitted with hinges at the back so I can lift them up so I won't have to crawle underneath to get to the wireing etc i intend on using 9 mm ply but I'm not sure if it will need to be braced with a framework to rest on a separate fixed support
Hope this makes sense any ideas will be appreciated
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Brian
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#2

Post by Brian »

Hi
Best practice is to always brace the underside of the baseboard. 9mm ply will need additional bracing. Along the front, rear and across at around 18" inches (450mm-500mm) apart. Minimum I would use would be 2" x 1" (44mm x 21mm) PSE fixed narrow edge to underside of ply. But deeper and thinner PSE can be used such as for example 3/4" x 2 1/2" (18mm x 63mm). All measurements are approx. PSE = Planed Square Edge. Don't forget once the cross bracing is cut to size drill some 3/4" dia holes in them (two or three per brace) and drilled near to the top edge. These will allow later wiring to run easily around the undersides - trying to drill holes once the cross braces are fixed in place is far harder than doing before fitting them!

On a side note, I am surprised your planning dept agreed where a fixed staircase is to be fitted to gain loft access, as it makes the loft space far more accessible and easily made into a habitable room, where access only via a loft ladder or similar wouldn't? But I'm no Town Hall planner ;) :)
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Puddles
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#3

Post by Puddles »

My layout is up in the loft.
When I had our extension built I got the builder to put bigger joists in as the roof timbers were being fitted.
The original staircase was being moved so I had one made to take another flight up to the loft. When the building inspector came to inspect the work he had no concern at all over the staircase going up to the loft he just made the comment “it will be used as a store room won’t it.” As you can see I am storing my trains in the loft, the layout is 9’6”x 12’ and fixed to the walls with a large hole in the middle which I will fill in with some plywood after all the scenery is finished and create a small village leaving two pop up holes each end for access to the layout.
I hope this gives you an idea what your loft will look like once you have fitted up your plywood base.l have not made a lift up section as I do duck down and under which keeps me agile,
Hopefully when all the scenery is done and I am only running trains I won’t have to get under to much, please don’t mention derailments.
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2027Joe
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#4

Post by 2027Joe »

Ref: Lofts

I an surprised that Building Inspectors haven't made more comment about these conversions !

Usually if fitting proper stairs for access they would normally ask for a Fire Resisting door at either top or bottom.

I would also respectfully suggest that anyone with their layout in their loft also fits a smoke detector and has a suitable extingiusher near to the access point.

Joe
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RAF96
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#5

Post by RAF96 »

Note there is a big difference between planning permission and building regulations approval.
The former is more interested in will it change the look of the house, whereas the latter is more interested in maintaining structural integrity and habitation qualities of the space, e.g. it can be strong enough but not fit to live in due to air quality, ventilation, heating, insulation, boiler in the room, etc.
mick1219
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#6

Post by mick1219 »

Thanks for the reply, I should have said that planning is not required unless room alters the physical structure presumably if there is a dormer window (which will not be) also there will be a fire door at the top of the stairs plus smoke alarms and yes of course building regulations will be required
The builder was due to start in May but now with this virus stuff will have to see what happens
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Brian
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#7

Post by Brian »

My Club ordered seven 4ft x 2ft baseboards with fold up legs from a manufacturer in Southern Ireland. Cheque for around £1300 cashed and nothing heard since!!!
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Steve M
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#8

Post by Steve M »

Brian wrote: Wed Apr 01, 2020 6:43 pm My Club ordered seven 4ft x 2ft baseboards with fold up legs from a manufacturer in Southern Ireland. Cheque for around £1300 cashed and nothing heard since!!!
Recently and only delayed by the virus I hope?
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IanS
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#9

Post by IanS »

Worth contacting them, even if they give you the 'excuse' of the virus at least it lets them know you haven't forgotten them!
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RAF96
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Re: Baseboard for a new layout

#10

Post by RAF96 »

Great Eastern Models in Norwich do nice 4x2 boards with Sundeala tops if anyone needs that sort. They also do track laying and wiring to your plan or one of their standard plans if required.

Speaking of duck down access. I am no longer agile enough to limbo under the boards so my ‘lift-out’ section is actually a ‘slide-in’ section on a couple of bearers attached to the main layout sides. There are back stops to limit in-movement and bolts at the front to lock it in place to maintain rail alignment at the joints. Power transfer is by way of plug in choc block connectors mounted one half to the removable section and the other half to the back stops. When the board is out it isolates power to either side of the gap to prevent any nose dives.
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