Changing Wheels

[IanAlan]

Hi Everyone,
I'm intending to change the plastic wheels on my rolling stock to metal. They're all OO gauge Hornby or Triang. I've never done this, so I've a few things that I'd like to run past Forum members before I order the wheels. Apologies if it seems rather basic or obvious.

1. I assume that the size is the diameter of the whole wheel, not the wheel flange or anything else. If I've got that wrong, please tell me.

2. So far, the old wheels I've measured range from 13mm to 16mm. Do any Forum members have experience of fitting new metal 14.1mm wheels to replace plastic wheels of a slightly different size? If yes, do they run okay?

3. Any other thoughts or recommendations regarding size, type, or retailers etc.

I had originally assumed that I'd order the wheels from Hattons when I put in my next order, but they only have two sizes in OO gauge, so I'm pondering my options.

Many thanks, Ian Alan

...and stay safe.

[Walkingthedog]

The diameter is the part that runs on the track not the flange. It depends whether the wheels you are replacing have pin point axles.

[IanS]

I've changed a few - there are number of tutorials on YT that help. I've not changed any through the axle box type from older stock, but there are tutorials on how to do it.

[IanAlan]

Many thanks WTD and IanS. It's good to know that I've been measuring the right bit. I did watch a tutorial by Ashley Turner before I posted my questions. He got me worried because he said that his Hornby Railroad wagon required 12mm wheels, but I had already measured mine and they are all 14mm. That's why I asked about the diameter.

Encouraged by your YT suggestion IanS, I've watched part of another tutorial which shows replacing Triang wheels on box type wagons. This is on another level of technical skill, so I'll start with the modern Hornby ones and maybe build up to the older style.

I'll also see what happens when I try to replace some old 15mm or 16mm wheels with 14mm ones. If it doesn't work, I'll just have to put the old ones back on.

Many thanks again, and if anyone else has any observations to make regarding wheel changing, I'm keen to learn. Ian Alan

[Mountain Goat]

In 00 gauge It used to be that nearly everything used 12.5mm wheels. Freightliners had the smaller 10.5mm wheels. Most Triang had the equivalent of 12.5mm wheels. (12.6 will do fine).
Only modern models of coaches use the correct 14.1mm wheels as all older coaches used 12.5.

My experience has been that some rolling stock may require fitting brass top hat bearings. There are top hat type, and non top hat type. Both can be useful. Most stock do not need bearings.
Very old Triang wheels that run with cast metal chassis or cast metal bogies can also have their wheels changed and I use the following method. Cut thin rings from a small plastic drinks straw. The narrow type of straws. Knock out the old Triang axles and KEEP THEM SAFE. While this may take some force, slide the new wheels off their axles, and assemble them o thw Triang axles while they are held in place on the Triang chassis BUT one also needs to remember to add the drinks straw spacers on the outsides of the wheels so they sit on the axles inbetween the wheels and the chassis frames. Then adjust the back to back wheel gauge width accordingly. You will usually need 12.5mm wheels for the wagons and 10.5mm wheels for the coach bogies if my memory serves me correctly. They run soo much nicer with the new wheels even though one is using the old Triang axles which are mounted in the holes in the chassis. The Triang axles can only be pushed out in one direction. Use an old thin nail to do this.

Anyway. The brass bearings are used when rolling stock needs to have the axle length adjusted or any other issues. I drill 2mm holes through the outside of the axleboxes, mounting the top hat bearings from the insides and clipping the wheels in. They run nicer if one can do it without glueing in the bearings, but some are too fiddely so one may need to glue them in place. Then fill the remains if rhe holes with a filler. I use modelling clay, and paint. Job done!

[IanAlan]

Many thanks MG for your highly detailed information. I've got several of the old Triang coaches and wagons with the metal bogies. Having read your description and watched part of a YT how-to video about them, I must confess that replacing them may well be beyond my technical ability. I'll certainly replace the wheels on the 'pull-out and push-in' type, and then see if I feel adequate to do the old ones.

I was surprised that you wrote that most modern rolling stock has 12.1mm wheels. All of mine seem to be 14mm (give and take 0.1mm). I'm wondering if I have been measuring them incorrectly, somehow.

Many thanks again everyone, Ian Alan

[Mountain Goat]

Could be measuring them from the wrong place? I have not measured them. I know I bought 10.5mm, 12.5mm and 14mm Romfords years ago so I know by looking at them which size is which, and other makes were made to similar sizes. 14mm is too big in 00 for wagons. Is used for coaches. Older models in regards to coaches can usually be fitted with 14mm wheels, but as most were designed for 12.5mm wheels the coach roof line will sit just over 1mm higher which does not seem a lot, but it can be noticable if one has a rake of coaches, so it is better to put roughly the same size wheels in as you took out.

Never throw away old plastic wheels if you do replace them with metal as people like me can use them for making budget 7mm narrow gauge waggons. While my first choice is metal, plastic wheels will do me just fine, and even if I don't use them, someone else will. Of course, if you have your own projects for the old wheels go for it! I just don't like seeing useable wheels going to waste.

There is another way of fitting wheels to Triang cast iron chassied items and that is to fit the new wheels complete with their pinpoint bearings into the vehicles using matchsticks jammed in the holes in the sides. I am assured by other modellers that this does work, though personally I prefer my method as it feels a more professional way of doing it. However, if it is easy to do and it works, why not give it a try?

[IanAlan]

Thanks again for your much appreciated contributions MG. I guess I'll buy a pack of 14.1mm wheels to start with and try them on various wagons and coaches to see how it goes. Perhaps I'll find out that I have been measuring them the wrong way.

Regarding the old plastic wheels, I've got an odds and ends box and lurking inside is the body of an armoured wagon which would make a very good static feature if I added a bogie (or two) and wheels. I've also got several bogies in various states of decomposition. So one more project to add to the To-do list.

Thanks again, Ian Alan

[IanAlan]

Looking on the Hattons website, I'm surprised to see that Hornby OO wheels cost £14.50 for ten axles, but Dapol OO wheels cost £10 for 20 axles. Has anybody bought the Dapol wheels and if so, were they good? I realise that anyone replying to this is walking a thin line regarding the forum rules.

Many thanks in advance, Ian Alan

[Mountain Goat]

Thanks again for your much appreciated contributions MG. I guess I'll buy a pack of 14.1mm wheels to start with and try them on various wagons and coaches to see how it goes. Perhaps I'll find out that I have been measuring them the wrong way.

Regarding the old plastic wheels, I've got an odds and ends box and lurking inside is the body of an armoured wagon which would make a very good static feature if I added a bogie (or two) and wheels. I've also got several bogies in various states of decomposition. So one more project to add to the To-do list.

Thanks again, Ian Alan

I would go for 12.5 or 12.6mm wheels to be safe to start with.
Dapol wheels are a good price but some have had issues with them coming off the rails when they come with Dapol wagons. I believe this is due to the shape of the wheel where the wheels profile is slightly too flat. I have not had issues myself as when I have bought Smallbrook Studio kits, so of which have Dapol wheels, they have worked fine.
Hornby replacement wheels I can say through experience are good. I have bought a lot of them in the past and had no issues. I would say that the best wheels I have are Romford wheels, but Romford were taken over by Makits and someone else took Makits over since? Sadly, though understandably the prices went up each time. They are well turned with a good profile, and they are nice and weighty. The V shape of the axle ends are steeper then other makes so they may need some easing in or better still using Romford top hat bearings solves this. They are very good wheels.
I am keeping my 10.5mm and 12.5mm Romfords, but I may be persuaded to exchange my 14mm Romford coach wheels (00 gauge) for an equivalent amount of Hornby 12.5 (Or is it 12.6?)mm metal wheels that come in those packs, or if someone has 10.5mm metal wheels in exchange I will be thrilled (For 2 rail use).

But anyway. Dapol wheels are ok and are at a good price, but my preference is for those packs of Hornby wheels if one does not mind spending a little extra.