Second hand track worth it?

[AndyH]

Looking for more track, where ls best place to buy track from?
Just seen a place doing good condition 22 double straights for £15

I also need some points curves etc my current track is quite old anyway not pristean missing sleepers etc so tempted with this and replace some of the bad bits

[dtb]

I have used peco flexi track (914mm) as my layout is quite large, but pretty sure a double straight is at least 300mm, so 22ft of track for 15 quid seems fair but obviously this depends on the size of your intended layout.

When I buy anything I always check my options on fleabay and the usual online model shops.

[Chops]

Sounds like a deal, to me. I have to pay double for everything what with overseas shipping.
As long as it is not bent or loose rails sounds great. I use both Hornby and Peco, both
excellent. If you are using vintage stuff from 35 years ago, you may be better served
to stick with code 100 size, as the older flanges on the fine old Brit stuff might not
like a smaller code.

I like the sectional track for the clickety-clack. Of course welded rail vanquished all that.

[Mountain Goat]

The first continous welded track was layed between Whitland and Clynderwen in Wales as an experiment. It was a success, so they then knew it was safe to use.
The downside of the continously welded track tends to be railbreaks in the cold weather, and track buckling in the extreme how weather. During the 9 years I worked on the railway we had both.
Sectional jointed track on the railway (Apart from the sound which can be heard for miles! on lines layed down echoey valleys) does tend to be prone to dipping where the joints are if used with frequent heavy loads. When I worked the Cardiff Valleys and Maesteg etc had such an exciting ride on 142's and 143's due to this that one would have to cling on to the seat. I once travelled from Pontypridd towards Cardiff when they first introduced the 142's there (The 142's had softer suspension then the 143's) and at one point the corridor connection was about a foot difference in height between one coach and the next.
I know that since those days they have changed the track to continously welded rails in both of those locations (They were half way through changing the Maesteg branch when I was working there as some sections were jointed rails and others were not.
Some areas will continue to have both wooden sleepers and jointed rails due to the conditions. Marshy conditions where there is a lot of movement is one example. First because concrete sleepers need a flat foundation to be layed onto or they will crack, and they are much heavier then wood, so in marshy conditions where any ground movement is noticed could crack a sleeper or also due to weight, cause any dip in the track to be worse. A certain section near the river about half a mile out from Carmarthen station needs to be like this as in the 1980's it started to sink, and since then 1000's of tonnes of ballast has been layed there and every so often they lift the track and do it all over again to take the dip out where it has subsided. I was told they tried everything at that location and while there is still ground movement (And for the forseeable future afterwards incase) they will keep it as jointed rail and wooden sleepers, as these will ensure that any movement in the trackbed will be catered for. There is a restricted speed limit in that area. I beleive it was 25mph or 20mph? Trying to remember.
But going back to the model form of track, if one should buy new or secondhand, if the price is right consider secondhand, but bear in mind that new track is going to be (Or should be or there is little point in buying it) perfectly flat and without fault. Secondhand track will obviously vary so could cause issues. Having said that, if the price is right it does not matter so much if a few pieces need to be swapped over..
If you can get it, nickel silver track is much better then steel track and if you happen to buy secondhand as a mixed job lot, use the steel track for lesser used sidings and keep the nickel silver track for your main running lines.

[Puddles]

When I first started planning my model railway I wanted to build it as cheap as possible and was going to buy lots of second hand model railway bits. There used to be a stall in our local indoor market which sold bits and pieces of second hand railway items and the stall holder used to give me advice and tips about building a model railway ,one of them was never to buy second hand track. Although he had track to sell on his stall he advised me against buying it.I have purchased other second hand locos and wagons on eBay and some times delighted and sometimes disappointed with wasting money so it’s all a bit of a gamble but I took his advice and all my track is new Peco code 100 flexitrack and laying out the railway has been trouble free. So I would say with my own experience Andy that second hand track is not worth it.Forum members may not agree with me and have been lucky with bargains along the way and I am just passing on part of my journey through building a model railway.

Puddles

[AndyH]

. If you are using vintage stuff from 35 years ago, you may be better served
to stick with code 100 size, as the older flanges on the fine old Brit stuff might not
like a smaller code.

I like the sectional track for the clickety-clack. Of course welded rail vanquished all that.
[/quote]

Very good points, I'm not sure what locos /trains I have. There are some double and even 3 straights (I think) in the assorted track that I've had set up and tested. Some trains are more difficult to get on but once on they seem to stay on bar a couple Dodgy points that have been replaced.

The collection of locos I have are;
(green) E51815
(green ) D7596 (blue) 827 , (gray) 58001
(maroon ) one just says Harry
(Longer blue ) D1008 and smaller blue one is D183 if it helps in identifying.

I understand these will be suited to 70s industry esp if pained the Harry in NCB

I also prefer that click clack sound going over the joins.

[IanS]

Google is still your friend! If you look up the numbers alone or stick Hornby in front of the number then for all but one of them a picture comes up and more details. Most of them are still available or listed as sold out on some major supplier sites.

~As for 2nd hand track, be aware postage costs can far outweigh the price if you buy on FleBay. I've bought quite a lot of 2nd hand track too, but have now decided to replace it slowly (costs a fortune!) with new track and points.

[yelrow]

Track Shack, is very competative on new stuff, and have you looked at Gumtree. My lad has bought some good stuff from there.

[AndyH]

How much would you pay for second hand 612 & 613, standard left and right hand 00 Hornby points?
Steel and nickel
There's a few going on eBay. A club is selling 3left and 3 right steel points for £22 plus £4 postage. Also has a mix of 6 other points for same price so nearly £50 for 12 steel points Inc postage along with 5 assorted points for £20 plus. All at buy it now price. I tried negotiating at around £35 for the 3 lots to no avail.

Another private seller has 15 mix y, left and right current bid at £26+£4 postage with about 10 hours left.
Another (not sure actually if same seller as above) has 12 points current bid £20+£4 postage also with 10 hrs left

Someone else has 12 points for £50 Inc postage, not sure if nickel or steal, they would suggest nickel, I'm taking view be steel, which as a starter, I don't mind as most of what I already have is also steel.

Any of these "good" deals?

[teedoubleudee]

If you are buying from eBay the important thing to do is to check out the seller feedback:
How long has seller been selling on eBay?
Has he/she got a high feedback (as a seller), look for 100% or close?
Read the feedback especially the negative
Has he/she made a lot of sales?
Does he/she sell a lot of model railway stuff or is this a first?

There are plenty of genuine sellers of model railway stuff on eBay (I know because I'm one myself ) but there are some chancers too. If you're happy with your seller research (above) then check out the photos. They should be sharp, not blurry pics taken from different angles. If these check out OK then do your sums of what the price new would be to the seller's asking price and if that seems reasonable then it's up to you. But don't bid more than you think they are worth if it's an auction. And don't forget to take postal costs into consideration.

Good luck.