Just starting out

[Hoe Street]

I'm feeling most welcome after just 24 hours, Thanks. I'd better add that although the 1978 Plan 8/5-for 5th edition Track plans book is my intention, I didn't buy the then Hornby track as numbered-R162/R613 points especially. I bought the modern equivalents which have been mentioned in replies: R8072/8073. However, in light of the Insul/Electro point issue of small locos stalling on the former points that led me to seek proper guidance before any track is put in place. I'm grateful for the advice that has come forward. It points towards Peco small radius Electro SL-E91*/SL-E92* + the insulated joiners as avoiding that problem. **My attention has also been drawn to the fractionally larger (in length) 'Medium' Electro points which may however exceed the space I have.

[Bandit Mick]

Welcome to the friendly and informative forum. As Hound Dog says, you can have too much track at the expense and pleasure of making buildings and creating scenery. Looking forward to your progress - we can all learn from each other. One word of warning - this hobby is addictive! I started 4 years ago and absolutely love it.

[Hoe Street]

How true BM, hardly had time to digest my tea this evening.
I think the relevant issues have been covered, just a question of looking at what Electro stock is available that can replace the Insulfrog points on my chosen layout. I'd still welcome any more opinions from anyone who hasn't made a contribution yet - and others who have, want to come back with more views since I have added the last two posts.
I take on board the suggestion that you can have too much track and leave no space for scenic interest which is another part I am looking forward too creating. Luckily I got in my baseboard before the forthcoming latest Lockdown. As per plan it's 10x8 but with every possibility it can be extended at one end. What I want to overcome is transferring all the images I have of 'what I want to see', down on the board in practice:

[sandy]

Hi Hoe Street. Is that good old Hoe Street in good old East London. I expect it has changed a lot since I was there.

[Hoe Street]

Certainly is Sandy - renamed 1968 Walthamstow Central due to opening of Victoria Line. Soon to be beset by a plethora of skyscrapers which will create huge swirls of wind. Wonder if anyone can recreate figures being blown of their feet in such conditions!
I digress, not that difficult - for this evening and tomorrow perhaps, I'd just like opinions on whether the original R663 Hornby Point Motors are OK to use with Peco Electrofrog points. The latter of which good advice from MRF members are a better idea for my planned DC sidings area.

[sandy]

Sorry Hoe I cant comment on your Hornby track work I have never used Hornby only Peco track work.

[IanS]

The R663 point motors won't be appropriate for either newer Hornby points nor the Peco ones. The older point motors used a hook that fitted in a loop on the point which neither has now.

[Hoe Street]

Thanks for that update. Oh well, back to the drawing-board, more new kit required then!

[Hoe Street]

Hi All, back again needing advice on Point Motors that will work with Peco Electrofrog and the more modern Hornby Points[Reply from IanS earlier tonight]. I have seen reviews of Gaugemaster Seep Point PM-1 has built-in switch(yet to fathom that). Can I have any recommendations that they would solve my requirements to get most of the track installed without 'going wrong' ? Providing I can get them, and at a good price.
I'll be back in the morning thanks all for today-Monday.

[Brian]

Hi
Seep PM1 do have a built in single change-over switch (SPDT) of a very crude design - a washer pressed down onto the PCB track by a spring makes connection tab F to either D or E tabs depending on the motors position. They are notorious for needing absolutely perfect alinement to the point above. They work best with a CDU - Capacitor Discharge Unit, though its not essential to have one. Normally only one CDU is needed for the whole layout. Note a CDU doesn't work well with the Hornby R044 Black point levers due to these old style levers design. But a CDU does work correctly with all other switches and passing contact/momentary lever types used for solenoid point motors such as - Peco PL26, (On)-Off-(On) toggle switch which is sprung to centre Off position, 2 x Press to make none locking push buttons or even Stud and Probe etc. The CDU stores energy from the supply power and delivers it in a "Beefy" pulse to the solenoids coil. It also stops coil burn out occurring should a switch or lever remain On for too long. A CDU is best powered from around a 16 volts AC power source.

The Peco PL10 motor is well proved, but lacks any as supplied switch, so either a PL13 or PL15 needs to be added to it The surface PL11 cannot have switch added directly to it, so it needs alternative means of switching use - frequently a micro switch operated by the points moving stretcher (Tie) bar. The new Peco PL1001 motor comes with a DPDT change-over switch.

However, there are devices that connect into the wiring to a solenoid motor and they are called "Latching Relays". These latch one way or are unlatch on the pulse to the motor in the other direction. Look for Gaugemaster GM500 or Brimal MR204. They offer two separate sets of change-over contacts (DPDT).

Always use at least 16/0.2mm Equipment wire for all wiring where any solenoid motors operation and return is used.

TBH the cost of a PL10 plus PL15 or the PL1001 gets very close to that of a slow motion Tortoise or DCC Concepts Cobalt ip motor when purchased in bulk packs of 10 or 12 motors, but the initial cost looks a lot! IMO they are far better than a solenoid motor.