Hi,
I’ve built a train layout for my 5 year old son to the Hornby R8217 trackmat, using the extension packs. We’ve had loads of problems with the two controlllers (both R8250s) which keep shorting out. I’ve tried everything to make sure all the track fishplates are tight, everything is tracked down etc. I’ve basically followed all the instructions. I’m a novice at model railways. Anyway, I’ve got a really frustrated 5 year old who wants to use his train layout and I’m looking into a new controller for one of his Christmas presents. Can anyone offer any advice on a suitable controller? We don’t need anything too advanced, something reliable really. Any advice gratefully received!
Advice on controller
Re: Advice on controller
The best DC controllers are Gaugemaster, but they are not cheap! But do come with a lifetime warranty. You may be able to obtain second hand ones? Their lifetime warranty still applies, so long as they haven't been opened and tamped with.
If you have twin loops then each loop is feed directly from its own dedicated DC train controller. So a dual controller is needed like the GM model D or use two separate controllers.
If you have any cross-over points linking loop 1 to loop 2 it is highly recommended to fit Insulated Rail Joiners (IRJs) in the place of the metal joiners on the rails linking the two tracks in the cross-over direction. Hornby IRJs are part number R920 or you can use Peco SL-11.
The basic Hornby train controllers are renown for cutting out when the load is not particular high!
The only alternatives are to buy old but second hand Hammant & Morgan Duette controller from the 1970/80s Example... link to sales-1
Or
Link 2
If you have twin loops then each loop is feed directly from its own dedicated DC train controller. So a dual controller is needed like the GM model D or use two separate controllers.
If you have any cross-over points linking loop 1 to loop 2 it is highly recommended to fit Insulated Rail Joiners (IRJs) in the place of the metal joiners on the rails linking the two tracks in the cross-over direction. Hornby IRJs are part number R920 or you can use Peco SL-11.
The basic Hornby train controllers are renown for cutting out when the load is not particular high!
The only alternatives are to buy old but second hand Hammant & Morgan Duette controller from the 1970/80s Example... link to sales-1
Or
Link 2
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Re: Advice on controller
Two thoughts. One. Is it cutting out without a train on the track? The only way to test this with the little trainset type controllers from Hornby is to try with a bulb or a current tester.
Another thought is to check you dont have any reversing loops or triangles in the track plan. (A reversing loop will turn a train to face the opposite direction if one is able to drive the train through its journey).
An easy way to test the controller and the train is to try the train on a short track section which is away from the main board. This will show you if it is your track plan on the board that is causing the issue or not.
Like Brian said, I do find that Gaugemaster or most other makes of controllers are easier to work with, as I found that it is easier to trace faults. To hear a positive "Tick" noise when the overload cuts in and you visually see the light going off if there was track power with the controller on and the trip then goes off. Some makes of controller even have a physical visual indicator (Usually a bulb or LED but could be a pop out resettable physical type cut out on some older controllers) when the overload has tripped. I found that the modern Hornby trainset type controllers cab be a little bit of guesswork as to if the cut out has tripped, and then one has to unplug it and then wait 30 seconds before it resets which is frustrating. Most other makes reset within a second as soon as track power or the short has been removed.
Another thought is to check you dont have any reversing loops or triangles in the track plan. (A reversing loop will turn a train to face the opposite direction if one is able to drive the train through its journey).
An easy way to test the controller and the train is to try the train on a short track section which is away from the main board. This will show you if it is your track plan on the board that is causing the issue or not.
Like Brian said, I do find that Gaugemaster or most other makes of controllers are easier to work with, as I found that it is easier to trace faults. To hear a positive "Tick" noise when the overload cuts in and you visually see the light going off if there was track power with the controller on and the trip then goes off. Some makes of controller even have a physical visual indicator (Usually a bulb or LED but could be a pop out resettable physical type cut out on some older controllers) when the overload has tripped. I found that the modern Hornby trainset type controllers cab be a little bit of guesswork as to if the cut out has tripped, and then one has to unplug it and then wait 30 seconds before it resets which is frustrating. Most other makes reset within a second as soon as track power or the short has been removed.
Budget modelling in 0-16.5...
Re: Advice on controller
Thanks both of you for your replies. I assume it might just be the Hornby controllers that are the problem (they do have a pretty cheap and nasty feel about them) as I did follow the Hornby plan for the trackmat and extension packs to the letter. I’ll look around for one of the controllers you’ve mentioned to get my son back on his layout. Thanks again.
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Re: Advice on controller
I knew which controller that would be before I googled it. I had the same issue, though year ago so forget what was causing the short, but the controller seemed hyper sensitive to it.
Got a gaugemaster, never looked back. If you think your boy might spend some years enjoying his trains then very much worth the money.
Got a gaugemaster, never looked back. If you think your boy might spend some years enjoying his trains then very much worth the money.
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Re: Advice on controller
I have exactly the same isssue, Hornby Thomas track with A,B,C,D extensions, one basic controller and linked tracks. Running one train is fine, running two and as soon as a train derails or more often than not if you change a train over you have to reset the controller. Its frustrating especially to a 4 year old
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