Track-Laying Newbie Stuck on Corners

[HappyWanderer]

Hi everyone,

New to this whole track-laying business and feeling like a bit of a veg to be having to ask this question, but what's the trick to laying corners correctly?

First time around I thought I'd done ok, but then discovered that some of my corners were too tight, consequently all of my engines bar a really wee one (might have been called a 'shunter' when I was a child?) would derail.

I've therefore taken the track back up and had another go, this time trying to make the corners more gradual. I seem to be having a bit of a nightmare trying to get my track to join up. Bending one of those flexi bits of track obviously results in one of the rails looking longer than it's partner, which presumably means I'll need to do some cutting?

Is this correct? If so, is there a tool that anyone can recommend which would allow me to cut track accurately so I can avoid number trial and error attempts?

Grateful for any other track laying advice, specifically corner-related, that experienced folk would think is common sense, but probably isn't common sense to me!

[yelrow]

Hi, Xuron track cutter. There are two sorts. One cuts from bottom up, and tother from top down. I have both. Others use a dremel, with a cutting disc. As for template, peco sell these, metal gadget to ensure corner angle. You will end up, having to cut one, or both tracks. To make bending easier, cut the sleeper joints on whichever side you are bending, to make rail stay bent. You will also have to remove sleepers at joining ends. Xuron, is your friend. Makes life easy.

[teedoubleudee]

Best way is to draw out the partial circle to the desired radius either directly or using a template. You can also get a tool called Tracksetta available in different gauges and radii. Xuron Track Cutters are the best tool to use for cutting the track.

One tip I would offer is to NOT have the two tracks cut at the same point as this will weaken the join. Instead stagger the cuts by two or three inches - found this out the hard way!

[Walkingthedog]

I aways use set track curves if they are the correct radius for what I require.

[Brian]

Hi

Firstly I assume you're using flexible track probably in OO scale?

The normal minimum radius I would recommend is equal to fixed curved track sections sold by Hornby or Peco and is to 438mm radius to centre line of track or also known as Radius 2. But many flexible track users will try and make their curves as large as is practicable and that will fit in the space available. So its not uncommon for a minimum radius to be 24" inches (approx. 609.6mm) Note all measurements are to the centre line of the track.

Simplest is to use a piece of string, a nail or pin and pencil. Position the nail at the centre of the curve and tie the string around the pencil at the distance out from the nail that's equal to the radius needed. Then draw a curve keeping the sting tight. Once a curved line is drawn pin track middle to that drawn curve.

A steel device call a Tracksetta is a useful tool and is sold in various pre set radius. I think 18" inches (457.2mm) is the smallest in the OO Tracksetta range. There are also Tracksetta for N gauge too. See Peco for details but all good model shops should sell them and eBay sellers too. https://peco-uk.com/pages/tracksetta Using these ensures a constant curve (or straight) and the Setta has slots in it to allow pins to be inserted into the sleepers and baseboard to retain the track in place.


As for cutting rails then the best tool IMO is a Xuron rail cutter. Be cautious if purchasing one to obtain the correct type! The 2175B is a Top to Bottom cutter while the 2175M is a Side to Side rail cutter.

A Dermel type mini electric drill fitted with a metal slitting disc works well, but does not cut the rail squarely top to bottom as a Xuron cutter does! A Dermel cut is frequently at a slight angle due to the angle of the drill.

Finally a Razor saw can be used too.

I would also recommend obtaining a set of Needle files or at least a flat needle file to remove any slight burrs that all cutters tend to leave and that burr makes pushing the fishplate on harder.
Also on Peco flexible track you will have to remove the first sleepers rail chairs to allow the fishplate to slide on correctly.

[HappyWanderer]

Thanks for all your responses, everyone. Super helpful!

Yep, it's 00 gauge. I shall proceed with ordering myself a Tracksetta, a Xuron, and some needle files.

Much appreciated

[Mountain Goat]

My advice from experience in 00 gauge is if one is using code 100 track, to use the train set type sectional track for 1st, 2nd and possibly 3rd radius curves and lay any wider curves in flexible track. This uses the best of both worlds, as the issues with flexible track and sharper bends is that it will try to push outwards at the joins, while sectional track does not so it retains its curve better.

Flexible track can certainly be taken to extremes if needed but extra care needs to be taken if one does so. My 7mm narrow gauge railway started off with what is code 100 flexible track which I then made my own sleepers for narrow gauge use and soldered them on. The soldered sleepers hold the curve very rigidly so even though I am turning through 180 degrees on a 2ft wide (60cm) board, it does work (Though obviously there are going to be limits on what can run on there and how fast etc.).
But for ordinary 00 gauge use, one can save oneself a lot of issues if one adapts a mix of flexible and sectional track if one needs to use 1st or 2nd radius curves. (Sectional track on the sharper curves). One could if desired, use a mix where flexible track is layed in a transition form into the curve, and then use sectional track for the main part of the curve.

I hope this helps.