basic electrics question about lights and signals with its own power supply

[noideawhatimdoing]

Hello everybody.

I am new to model railways, i am just in the process of setting up a baseboard and laying track, which will be two separate loops with 2 separate controllers, as i have two young boys and they will be able to control 1 train each. Therefore i am using dc to keep costs down, i cannot afford 2 dcc controllers and the associated costs, plus I wish to keep it cheap and simple at first.

I wish to add as many extra switches and buttons as possible for my layout for maximum fun for the children. I am looking for a way of wiring lights, signals and possibly point motors, all to be controlled with manual switches. No matter how much i search online, i cannot find a box with switches that i can just wire everything into.

I want these lights etc to be separate from the train controller, can anyone reccommend a complete solution with everything i need? for example a couple of railway light signals that i can switch from red to green, some lights for buildings that i can switch on and off, and maybe point motor or two ( point motor might be done later down the line).

i can buy a signal with lights, i can buy lights, but i cant find a box with switches nor a power supply which they will plug into.

Does anyone have any advice or specific suggestions? i will not be going dcc so alternative options would be good.

i have seen a 'just plug' lighting system but i dont think it can do a rail signal (red and green stop and go).

i am looking for a total solution ie power pack, switches and the option for lights and signals, can anyone link to anything suitable? i am trying to keep costs as low as possible, also I am using 00 gauge.

Also any suggestions for other operational accessories i could install that use switches would be good as my children will enjoy this aspect.

thank you in advance sorry if my question is not clear!

[Mountain Goat]

With DCC one has one controller per layout but can have multiple handsets.

But for adding buttons to play with stick to DC as it can be more fun in this way. Manual clonky toggle switches I love!

Usually one builds a control panel to put ones switches onto.

Actually on one of the model railway sites I have seen someone selling an old H&M case which one can put slide switches in if I am correct.

Power supplies... Depends what one is going to power. 12V DC or 18v AC. If one buys a new double track controller (Or two separate single controllerss) and one still has a small controller that came with a trainset, one can use the small trainset controller to power a few signals or lights on 12V DC.

12V lights just need a 12V constant supply. Point solenoids need a 18V pulsed current as they want the burst of current to throw the solenoid but then switches off. Capacitor discharge units (CDU's) are designed to help in this. One can simply make a probe from a nail or something to touch boltheads on a control panel as a simple electrical "Touch" switch where one briefly touches the bolthead (Which is wired up underneath it) with the nail (That the other wire is attached) for a brief second to throw the solenoid over in either one direction or the other. If one leaves the "Probe" touching the "Tag" (The bolt head) then it will eventually burn out the point solenoid. The CDU charges up and provides thie sudden burst (Sends more power to throw the point) and then it is discharged so one will not risk any damage to the solenoid. Then when one lets go it can charge again. A CDU is not essential. Just gives both solenoid protection and it adds some more power.
One can have manual points to save cost. There are ways to operate points using old bicycle spokes etc if one needs to.

Colour light signals need a switch which if it is just a simple red or green, all one needs is a simple two way switch. Signals normally run from 12V DC.

[Tricky Dicky]

For lighting on your layout and signals look at the Modelit range which is fairly plug and play with switches, dimmers and connecting wires.

Point motors is a little more complicated, stall motors just require single pole double throw (SPDT) switch. The more common solenoid motor needs momentary contact and there numerous ways of achieving that.

Richard

[Mountain Goat]

May I suggest though to get a good DC controller as these will often have 18V AC accessory outputs along with the 0-12V DC to control the trains, and some even have an additional 12V DC constant supply for additional accessories. It maybe the answer.

Gaugemaster and Morley are the most popular makes. Gaugemaster do not do the additional 12V constant supply, but they do sell separate transformers but ALWAYS buy cased transformers for safety.

An advantage though of using a redundant trainset controller as a 12V DC supply is it will have a built in overload protection if one accidently wires anything up wrong. Accessory transformers do not have this and the 16 or 18V AC from train controllers or transformers do not have overload protection so doubly check wiring if wiring to these.
The only downside to using a little trainset controller as an additional accessory output is that they won't be able to power too many bulbs at a time as they do not supply that much current. (Usually a quarter or a third of an amp).

DCC can also be fun as one can turn lights on and off on locos or sounds etc, but things can get additionally expensive and complex... Swings and roundabouts. Some things are simpler with DCC but other things aren't!

[noideawhatimdoing]

thank you very much for your replies everyone. That modelit that someone suggested looks very close to what i was thinking. As I am a newbie I will probably have many more daft questions in the near future.

Thanks again

[Brian]

Hi

Don't buy or use 'Train Set' controllers to power 12 volt DC accessories, as their rated output is usually far higher than the nominal rating e.g. 12volts DC can be as much as 21 volts under little or no loading! Instead look for a Regulated 12volt DC power supply. These output the stated voltage regardless of load (Up to their maximum rating). CCTV or LED power supplies offering 12v DC at a 1.0Amp or better 2.0Amp will be the ideal for all 12volt rated items This is atypical example... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174843051677 ... SwViJg8WhS This one has a adaptor for easy onward wiring. These can power all LED lit signals and building and street lights and platform lighting etc. All are ideally LEDs and may need a series resistor of around 1K0 to 1K5 Ohm per LED. LEDs are of course polarity conscious devices and need to be connect to the supply the correct way around.

As for OO signals there is quite a choice in UK colour light style.. Eckon which you assemble yourself, Berko ready assembled. Traintech now owned by Gaugemaster etc Just Google OO signals.

If you're using solinoid point motors - Hornby, Peco, Gaugemaster etc then a 16volt AC power source rated at least 1.0 Amp is ideal. Here a train set controllers AC uncontrolled output can be used, but ideally feed this into a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) then the Positive output passes onto the passing contact/momentary switches/levers. The CDU negative going out to the layout to act as the main return for all motors. The CDU stores the power and releases it as instantaneous and beefy pulse to the solinoid motor. The CDU also protects all the solinoid motors from occidental continuous feeding, which would if no CDU normally used cause the motors coil to burn out! Other power supplies are also available and even a 19 to 21volt DC power supply as used from a former laptop power supply can be used with a CDU.

[noideawhatimdoing]

Hello Brian, I have your awesome book! I am new to this but I am excited to get started! thank you for advice. I have always always liked model railways but my children are literally obsessed with trains so I am hoping to make an exciting layout for us to enjoy.

Thanks again, I will undoubtedly have many more questions in the near the future.

[Mountain Goat]

This is the switch console that someone has for sale. As far as I understand, It is a box to hold switches in it.

https://modelrailwayforum.co.uk/viewtop ... =42&t=4387

I do not know if ordinary slide switches can be used or not or if only H&M switches (Which will be hard to get as these H&M switch consoles have not been made for years) as I have never had one, so enquire with the seller if interested.

I have also seen nice little Peco switch consoles going for sale secondhand with Elaines Trains and she also has two job lots of Peco point solenoids if anyone is interested but be quick. (See her website). Things like this don't hang around for long.
Peco point switch consoles are only designed to house Peco switches as far as I understand. I have dealt with Elaine many times buying various secondhand items and she is very good to deal with.