Wiring - Needing Help With Something Which Should be Simple!

[HappyWanderer]

Hi guys,

I have succeeding in putting together my 1980s 00 gauge set as a simple loop, and it works fine.

I then added in several sidings on the inside of the loop; however, I cannot work out how to get power to them.

As a rough description, if you imagine the loop as a clock, the sidings feed into the loop at about 11:00, and from an anti-clockwise direction.

The wiring is connected to the loop at about 01:00.

I've tried to look at wiring guides online but I'm really struggling to get my head around it all as I know next to nothing about electrics.

I'd be greatful to receive any advice which is as close to idiot-proof as you can make it. Thanks in advance

[sandy]

If you are using 1 loco on an oval of track with a point and siding then power should be taken to the siding when the point is switched into the siding. If you want to control a loco in the siding (independent to main line) when the point is switched to the main line ( strait on past siding) you will have put a insulated rail to isolate the siding and control siding through a switch and perhapse another controller. Take it this is not a DCC Set. Is it a Hornby set.

[Brian]

Think of points as acting like light switches, so when set to the straight that track is On but the turnout track is Off. Move the point over and the turnout route becomes On and the straight ahead route becomes Off. The main thing is to ensure power flows into the single line end of the point and is switched by the points position.

As has been stated, if you want to have locos able to move when the point is not set towards that track in a dead end siding etc, then add an Insulated Rail joiner in place of a metal joiner in the sidings one rail after the point and a new feed to that rail after the IRJ coming via a simple On/Off switch. Then regardless of the points position turning the switch On allows power to flow into that previously isolated rail.

[HappyWanderer]

Thank you Sandy and Brian for your responses.

I did think that simply changing the points should send power into the siding; however, that just isn't happening. A loco sitting in the sidings won't move out. If I place the loco on the main track and try to reverse it into the sidings then it will reverse to just past the points and then stop dead where it is.

Does this mean I have a fault somewhere? (other than in my lack of understanding of basic wiring! )

[jamespetts]

There may be a fault with the points if they are not routing power. The inside surfaces of the blades or rails that they touch can sometimes become dirty and stop conducting power.

The best way of diagnosing something like this is to use a multimeter - you can see exactly where the current is flowing if you do this.

[HappyWanderer]

Thanks jamespetts, that does indeed seem to be the problem.

I've given the top of the tracks a rub with one of those things which look like a big blue eraser and that has improved the issue, though not completely fixed it.

I think I need to clean down the inside of the rails too. Is there a recommended method of doing this, or would a cotton bud dabbed in vodka do the job?

[jamespetts]

Thanks jamespetts, that does indeed seem to be the problem.

I've given the top of the tracks a rub with one of those things which look like a big blue eraser and that has improved the issue, though not completely fixed it.

I think I need to clean down the inside of the rails too. Is there a recommended method of doing this, or would a cotton bud dabbed in vodka do the job?

Alcohols, which are polar solvents, are not ideal for cleaning track, as they can encourage more oxidation in the future. If you have something like WD-40 contact cleaner (note: this is not the same as WD-40 penetrating oil) or a similar contact cleaner (e.g. NO-OX-ID), then this would be ideal. Otherwise, a fibreglass brush, if you can get it into the space, should work.

[HappyWanderer]

Thank you, I've ordered some of the WD-40 contact cleaner from ebay

[sandy]

WD 40 is not a contact cleaner it is a water repellent and lubricant and is not recommended for use on model railways as it can do horrible things to plastic models. If you want to clean track with a cloth use IPA. You can get 1L bottle on ebay for about £4 ish, I cant remember for shaw got mine long time ago lasts for ages. Wonderful stuff for cleaning commutators switches ECT. Dont use WD40.

[jamespetts]

WD 40 is not a contact cleaner it is a water repellent and lubricant and is not recommended for use on model railways as it can do horrible things to plastic models. If you want to clean track with a cloth use IPA. You can get 1L bottle on ebay for about £4 ish, I cant remember for shaw got mine long time ago lasts for ages. Wonderful stuff for cleaning commutators switches ECT. Dont use WD40.

WD40 contact cleaner is a specific product: see here. It is quite different from WD40 penetrating oil. Definitely do not use the penetrating oil - but do use the contact cleaner.

For more information on the relative merits of non-polar solvents such as WD40 contact cleaner and polar solvents such as alcohols, see this video.