Low melt solder
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Low melt solder
I have two kits that require low melt solder. One is etched brass and the other is white metal. The only low melt solder I can find here in the US is 347F/175C from Amazon.
I note that DCC Concepts has two low melt, one is 145 and the other is 100.
What is best to use? Can I use the same for each type of metal?
Do I need the low melt from DCC Concepts or will the 175 work?
Thanks,
David
I note that DCC Concepts has two low melt, one is 145 and the other is 100.
What is best to use? Can I use the same for each type of metal?
Do I need the low melt from DCC Concepts or will the 175 work?
Thanks,
David
Re: Low melt solder
I've a small white metal kit that i've been working on...
Prior to working with it, I asked a knowledgeable friend who said that it wasn't worth soldering with White Metal, and suggested using CA Glue (Superglue) or similar instead.
I've done this and it works well... I've also used a little milliput in the corners for some extra added rigidity.
Prior to working with it, I asked a knowledgeable friend who said that it wasn't worth soldering with White Metal, and suggested using CA Glue (Superglue) or similar instead.
I've done this and it works well... I've also used a little milliput in the corners for some extra added rigidity.
Father, IT Guy, HO/OO Modeler.
- Walkingthedog
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Re: Low melt solder
I made my last white metal wagon with super glue but used epoxy resin in the corners, really strong and much easier than soldering.
Nurse, the screens!
Re: Low melt solder
I'm building a k'S 48XX at the moment. For the most part I've used superglue to get it together then I've soldered a tack inside the joints to make sure it stays together. I also use the Carrs solder and flux.
I've found before that glued joints can fail in time plus things like the steps which can easily come loose with handling.
I've found before that glued joints can fail in time plus things like the steps which can easily come loose with handling.
Re: Low melt solder
I have built a few white metal kits and have done a bit of soldering but most were glued with five minute epoxy resin. Araldite. Nothing has falling off yet some are years old.
Here is one I am doing at the moment all done with Araldite.
Here is one I am doing at the moment all done with Araldite.
Sandy
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Re: Low melt solder
100 degree solder has lead in it so flows a lot better than the 70 version. Sometimes a bit difficult to get a hold of but worth searching out if you opt for soldering.
Re: Low melt solder
I agree with that. I have a large reel of of solder with lead in it and it does seem to work better than the lead free stuff. After wiring up the layout the reel is getting thinner now. Wonder where I can get the next one from. Do they still make it.
Sandy
Re: Low melt solder
Rosen cored lead content solder 60/40 is freely available on the www. eBay sellers offer a lot (I would avoid Chinese solders though, as some are not that good!) I use both Duratool and Silverlive products in 0.7mm and 1.0mm thickness for all PCB and general electrical soldering work.
But this solder isn't really suitable for White Metal soldering as its melting point is much higher than that needed for WM soldering which is frequently 70 to 100 degree. Carrs and DCC Concepts sell low temperature solders.
But this solder isn't really suitable for White Metal soldering as its melting point is much higher than that needed for WM soldering which is frequently 70 to 100 degree. Carrs and DCC Concepts sell low temperature solders.
Re: Low melt solder
Thanks Brian Was only thinking about general soldering not white metal I use Epoxy resin for metal kits mostly.
All done with Araldite 5 minute epoxy
This is one half finished, will finish it next winter I expect. Too busy with the layout at moment.
All done with Araldite 5 minute epoxy
This is one half finished, will finish it next winter I expect. Too busy with the layout at moment.
Sandy
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