Scratch building - brick paper help.

[The Sligo Rover]

I am having a bash at scratching building a warehouse. I am reasonably ok with the structure.
I need some help and guidance with applying the brick paper, I.E., the best way to do the corners and any flush joins.
Can anybody point me to a good web page or book or YouTube where I could see what is recommended please?
Thank you in anticipation.

[The Sligo Rover]

I am underwhelmed - 383 views and not one single reply!

[Walkingthedog]

I have scratch built buildings but not used paper to cover them, I have used embossed plasticard.

[teedoubleudee]

I've used Metcalfe brick and stone papers before and have just wrapped them around corners. On a long wall which needed more than one width I simply butted them up against each other so the brick lines lines up. Here is a link where someone uses a brick paper but it doesn't add more than this, but may be of interest.

https://www.world-of-railways.co.uk/tec ... t-cottage/

[teedoubleudee]

I have scratch built buildings but not used paper to cover them, I have used embossed plasticard.

This is a much better option, especially for models near to the front of the layout where their 3D effect is more visible. At the back of a layout you can get away (IMO) with the flatter surface these papers provide. Also for a long section such as a high wall or row of arches, the cost of the preformed plastic sheets can be quite prohibitive.

[jed10]

If you build a few Metcalse kits first then it will give you some valuable tips to use for your own scratch build. Where a join in brick paper or card is unavoidable it's often possible to cover this with a buttress or brick pier. In real life long brick walls are interspersed with brick piers every so often for strength. Even drain downpipes can be added for this purpose. On exposed corners, Metcalfe kits deal with this by using scored card sections that wrap around. The score line can then be either carefully painted with a fine brush or, like I do, use a felt tip pen of an appropriate matching colour to carefully run down the score. The way Metcalfe uses multiple card layers to get windows realistically recessed is also worth copying.

[The Sligo Rover]

Thank you chaps, some very helpful points to ponder over.

[Bandit Mick]

On some of my corners I have used quoins like Metcalfe use. Where the corners on Metcalfe kits leave a deep fold line I fill it with ready mixed filler with a dash of pva glue for flexibility. If a fold around a corner does not work I cut the brick paper very carefully up to the corner then add the next piece around the corner - again, cut very carefully up to the corner with the bricks matched as well as I can. Drain pipes, weathering or small bits of vegetation can help to disguise any cock ups!

[Rog (RJ)]

This has reminded me of a little program that hou can download and use to print your own brick paper. The colour, scale and pattern etc can be adjusted to suit. http://www.bwwmrc.co.uk/bricks/