Electrical Baseboard connections

[Del Boy]

Hi there, I am at the stage of connecting my baseboards and mimic panel with the various connections for turnouts, LED’s etc. I have to initially link 16 Turnouts with PM1 solenoids so a reasonable collection of wires and the potential for numerous errors etc. I would like to ask what others recommend. I am not sure my soldering skills (!) will manage sub D type connectors very well so what do others use please?
Thanks
Derek

[Brian]

Hi
For a large number of cross baseboard connections...
D Connectors are fine, but ideally soldered with your own wires - 16/0.2mm would be my choice. As I mentioned here in Post #4 https://www.modelrailwayforum.co.uk/vie ... php?t=5197 ready-made D Connectors have usually small wires inside their factory fitted cables, so it would involve doubling or even tripling up of cores to overcome issues especially with solenoid point motors
Some like plugable 12 way terminal strips like these... https://www.bclstore.co.uk/product-page ... inal-block

Smaller number of ways (circuits) then DIN plugs and sockets or Aviation Connectors - Both would involve soldering wires though.

[teedoubleudee]

I've used computer PSU power extension cables similar to these. Just cut in half and join to circuits with solder or screw connectors.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144831952064 ... OoQAvD_BwE

[Tricky Dicky]

I can confirm the type of connector Brian advises is very good based on experience in non- modelling use. They can be sourced in several current ratings so are more than capable for high current DCC use. The only drawback is the lack of cable clamping which is not much of an issue if they are only being unplugged once in a blue moon but for more frequent use some method needs to be used.

The method I used was to mount the strips on short pieces of ply slightly wider than the terminal strips so a piece protruded behind where the wires went into the terminals this then allowed a piece of plastic, metal or wood to be screwed down and trap incoming wires onto the ply thus providing strain relief at the point of entry. Without strain relief wires will either tend to snap due to flexing or pull out of the screw terminals.

Richard

[Del Boy]

Hello all,

I wanted to say thanks for all this advice, much appreciated. Whilst I am a very lucky boy being on holiday at the moment we get home this week and I think I will buy a few samples of your suggestions and see how I get on with those. Once again thank you very much.
Cheers
Derek

[Del Boy]

Hi all,

Getting stuck into my electrical design based on all your suggestions.....

Brian, you have said ideally use 16/0.2mm wire. Well I have been shamelessly asking questions of MRS in Bournemouth before joining the forum and they have been brilliant. Thing is I now have tons of 18 Strand / 0.1mm wires and these seem to work really well on a test rig I have made up. So question is does your comment relate to it being easier to solder to 0.2mm or better current carrying capability? I am already using the Pluggable Chock Block products for the Track Power.

Tricky Dickie I really appreciate your comments and suggestions especially the method to improvise the restraints, that's a great idea. I think as a starter I will try soldering for now and if that proves hard I will revert to your suggestion.

Teedoubleudee this is also a good idea. I will buy some and try some experiments.

Once again thanks all for your help and I guess another question is what is BBCode and should I have it on?

[Tricky Dicky]

Hi all,

Getting stuck into my electrical design based on all your suggestions.....

Brian, you have said ideally use 16/0.2mm wire. Well I have been shamelessly asking questions of MRS in Bournemouth before joining the forum and they have been brilliant. Thing is I now have tons of 18 Strand / 0.1mm wires and these seem to work really well on a test rig I have made up. So question is does your comment relate to it being easier to solder to 0.2mm or better current carrying capability? I am already using the Pluggable Chock Block products for the Track Power.

Hi Derek
You have not mentioned if your layout is DCC or DC. If the latter then you are probably OK with the wires you have depending on layout size. Larger cross-sectional wires have greater current carrying capacity and on long runs of wire also mitigate voltage drop. DCC systems tend to put more current out on the wiring, my Lenz system can put out up to 4 Amp on to the wiring hence the need for substantial bus wires cross-section also mitigating voltage drops helps with the DCC signal. With a DC layout since you are only driving one loco on any powered section the current draw is low hence you can use finer wires and only need to go up in cross-section if you experience voltage drop. The one area on a DC layout where you will find high currents is the point motor wiring if using solenoid motors which you say you have PM1s. These can momentary draw 3/4 Amps hence Brian’s recommendation of 16/0.2. Hope that helps.

Richard

[Del Boy]

Thanks Richard,

I am setting up for DCC trains but my question relates to connection of the Turnouts, Switches and LED's being wired through from the Baseboard to the Mimic panel so almost an 'Analog' or I guess DC switching circuit totally separate from the DCC track. I just felt this was easier to do as a beginner rather than have everything controlled from the one handset. I am sorry I should have explained that more clearly.

I have ordered a variety of connections to experiment further and thanks in part to Mr Bezos will all be here tomorrow, what's not to like eh!

Thanks again.

Derek

[Steve M]

It’s a little while since I did the wiring on my layout but the posts on and around page 6 may give you some ideas.
I used a combination of solder tag strips, choc blocks and 25 pin D-sub plugs and some strict colour coding of the wires used.

https://www.modelrailwayforum.co.uk/vie ... 614#p32614

[Brian]

The reason I recommended 16/0.2mm wire is twofold.
1) Its twice the size of the normally used and so called "Layout Wire" which is usually 7/0.2mm and therefore as Richard has said it allows higher currents to flow with less reduction in current. Its ideal for solenoid motors.
2) It flexes better and is less likely to fracture with continual movement of plugging in and unplugging the connections.

For internal wiring of Mimic panels LEDs 7/0.2mm is ideal, while any momentary Point switches / Stud and Probe etc for solenoid motors should remain in 16/0.2 mm to ensure reliability