Jinty 3F

[Too Tall]

Does anyone have a view of the body separated from the die cast running plate ?
I know it should come off, and I have removed all visible screws, but I cant see how it separates. Obviously I don't wish to force it, so I am hoping one of you has been there and can enlighten me as to what I am missing !

[brian1951]

https://locoyard.com/2013/07/07/bachman ... y-version/

[Too Tall]

Sorry, I didn't explain it very well. To clarify, its not getting the body and chassis apart I am struggling with, its separating the plastic body from the die cast running plate.

[dtb]

I can take pics of the body removal if you wish, remove both front and rear couplings

[Too Tall]

Hi, that's not an issue, getting the body and chassis separated is straightforward.
It is separating the plastic part of the body from the metal running board/base plate that has eluded me so far !

[508035]

As far as I know and I might be wrong since I do not own a Bachmann Jinty at the moment but with most Bachmann steam locomotives, aswell as tye screws to fix the body and chassis together, some also include screws that fix the body to the metal running plate.

It might be worth seeing if there are screws for that purpose, ok not a jonth but the WD 2-8-0 has the body / running plate screws as does the 9F so definitely worth looking.

[Walkingthedog]

Just a guess but are there screws hidden under the tank filler caps?

[Too Tall]

Hi gents .. Ok no screws under filler caps.
As I had bought a SH but unused example I was a bit reluctant to get too heavy handed.
I had an order for some spares ready for some other bits at bachmann, so I decided to stick the cheapest body spare on and get free postage
The idea being I could be a little more forceful with it if required, and it could always be used as a candidate for a repaint if I damaged it.
I believe the original one either has stuck to the die cast over time, or may have a drop of adhesive at the factory.
After dismantling this Jinty body, and a Bachmann GWR 57xx Pannier, I am beginning to get an idea of the slightly less than obvious (to me) ways they sometimes go about things !
But I have now managed it:



It is short of room for a sound decoder such as the Hornby HM7K, newer ones have provision but also a bit tight for one of that size.
I had consigned my self to having to buy a Zimo or similar, but then I stumbled on a used factory fitted DCC one for £30 over the cost of a Zimo sound decoder, so I took the easy route
I am pleased to say it turned up today and is absolutely mint

So now I have a mint analogue version, a mint sound fitted one, a new body with a couple of minor marks that I can fix and re-livery to a BR version (in due course) complete with a new DCC ready chassis ...

I think I maybe have one too many Jintys

[Too Tall]

And after a bit of a repair to a scratch I managed to inflict without realising on my non DCC LMS model, I decided wet and dry the water tank/ bunker sides, and repaint into BR. I bought some bits from Bachmann spares for the fitment of a next 18 decoder and speaker, and a Zimo sound decoder with You Choos sound file.
I added a Road and Bachmann upgrade speaker in the stock fitment location, for which I had to cut out some of the non dcc body lower boiler/smokebox to allow fitment of the dcc N18 and speaker mount.
Fox waterslide decals for the logos and numbers (had to chop about the numbers to start with a 4 so a bit higgledy-piggledy. The decal lines dont look as bad IRL as the photo suggests. No doubt the number is fantasy, but beginning with a 4 was good enough for me