Track options

[Rodent]

Hi BB, thanks for your help. My room has the door in the corner so I thought it best to go round the room almost on 4 sides, with a break in the corner where the door is. I was thinking of building the layout about 1m high and mostly 2-3ft wide. However for the east coast mainline section I thought if I made it 4ft wide then I could accomodate a larger radius for the 180 degree end corners?
A lowered board to fit in the viaduct is a great idea - thank you, I hadn't thought of that and was considering building up lots of foam to build up instead, but the lowered board idea is a great option.
I was thinking of using electrofrogs and saw a good clip on uTube where they were used with seep motors.
I think the code 75 should be ok as I expect most loco's and rolling stock I buy will be new-ish.
A question on flexible track - is it easy for a beginner to work with and are special forming tools required to shape it?

[Walkingthedog]

I have a lower section for a viaduct.








I also have a lift out section by the door. Excuse the mess, storing some stuff for my son.

[Itch45]

Flexi track is easy and is what i used when i first started. No need to use special tools to shape just take your time.

[Rodent]

Walkingthedog, that looks great. The lowered section really works well. I'm trying to replicate the viaduct at Cullen, on the old GNoSR, cut by Beeching. It's an interesting line, winding along the moray firth coast.

[Rodent]

Thanks itch45, It looks like flex track can create a more natural looking layout than set track.again I have watched some uTube clips of shaping corners and creating natural lead-ins to corners. I think i will buy a batch of flex track and just start experimenting

[Walkingthedog]

Thanks Rodent. It was far easier to have a low bit that raise the track.

[bulleidboy]

Hi Rodent - you will need a pair of Xuron track cutters, and if the budget runs to it, you may find a full set of Tracksetta gauges useful. I bought the full set from Hattons - cost about £39 (at the time) - they slide inside the rails and come in a multitude of radii(?) including a straight. If the door is in the corner, you could re-hang it so that it opens out of the room rather than in, you can then put a lift-up section across the door. AS you mentioned having large radius curves is good, you could fit large "fillets" to the corners where your boards would normally have a 90 degree turn, this would enable you to have a more gradual curve. Are you building your boards or buying from a supplier? I bought mine as flat-pack kits from Model Railway Solutions in Poole, Doreset (there are other suppliers) - very sturdy and quick to assemble. BB

[Rodent]

Hi BB, I am planning on building the boards myself as I do a fair bit of DIY so have the tools etc. I aim to use 12mm plywood with batons underneath to support. I was only really thinking of using 1 side of my room to run mainline trains, with the other 3 sides being used for my GNoSR, which I think is more of a branch line. However, i like the mainline loco's (deltic, flying Scotsman etc) so I don't want the mainline section too limited in size, as because it seems larger radii corners are important for this section. The fillet corners is a great idea too,thanks.
I have the xuron cutters on my shopping list, are they better than a dremel as I already own a dremel?

[Bandit Mick]

Sounds like a good plan Rodent. Please be aware that 4 foot wide is a long way to stretch. I have a section nearly 3 foot wide and making scenery is quite difficult - and I'm a big bloke.

[footplate1947]

Thanks everyone, great information.
I thought code 75 was about aesthetics, didn't know there was a wheel flange issue. I think I'll probably be looking at new-ish loco's, though I guess it applies to rolling stock too.
Yelrow, I like the Z21 as it allows iPad control so seems quite future-proof. My 10 yr old daughter wants to get involved so the iPad thing is important to us.
Footplate1947, when you speak of levels, do you mean scenery/hills/bridges etc?. I've been wondering how to do this as some uTube vids show laying track first and other focus on getting the scenery layer sorted out first? The layout I have in mind has several bridges and a 7 span viaduct that and I haven't worked out how this will be planned yet.
Rodent

Hi Rodent Code 75 is lower profile rails which look more 4mm ft scale. Code 100 which is what I use because I have locos and rolling stock from older times couple back to the 50s up to present day. Code 100 is little bit higher rail profile, giving bit more clearance for older wheel flanges. In saying that I don't think it is very noticeable. You can be excused for not noticing at all. Although some will disagree.
When I spoke of levels I was referring to a track plan like a folded 8 where the main line goes around once and then can rise up via a bank to a second higher level and cross over the bottom loop via a bridge say, and go around the room again and joining the start of the bottom level which gives you double the run of say a main line. Helps to take away the tail chasing effect I think if you have room to do it.