Thanks Brian, curves no problem as it's a straight piece of track.Walkingthedog wrote: ↑Fri Nov 06, 2020 12:24 pm Sprung buffers help and you can get buffer lock on curves if the buffers are small. I can push several wagons around my second rad layout without any problems. I did have one second hand wagon that needed larger bufferes, I used drawing pins.
Three link couplings
- teedoubleudee
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Re: Three link couplings
Most people are shocked when they find out how bad I am as an electrician
- Walkingthedog
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Re: Three link couplings
Thanks for all your thoughts - the jury’s still out but I’ll probably go for smaller/narrower tension locks.
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Re: Three link couplings
My best tip is to have your group of wagons permanently coupled with three links, but the two end wagons to have the usual tension locks on the outside. It gives you some flexibility.
- teedoubleudee
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Re: Three link couplings
I've been looking for videos on the tube on how to replace standard tension lock couplings with 3-link ones but not come across any so far. My preferred option would be to make use of the NEM socket if possible so that I could easily reconvert if necessary. Anyone know if such items exist or can point me towards a SIMPLE way to install a 3-link coupling?
Most people are shocked when they find out how bad I am as an electrician
- Walkingthedog
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Re: Three link couplings
3 link couplings need to be in the buffer beam. If they were fitted into an NEM socket under the buffer beam the bottom link would touch the sleepers when hanging down. And of course the hook needs to be sprung.
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Re: Three link couplings
Hello Mick,
4mm three links are very easy to make, I failed (again) in a 4mm layout attempt recently, the stuff being far too expensive (and went back to 7mm, much cheaper)
But here's the coupling jig I made;
2 bits of 2mm steel cut from an old screwdriver, 0.5mm florists wire from eBay, clamp in a vice, cut with a piercing saw, 9 links for peanuts.
For a coupling hook use some thin nickel silver or brass wire taper the end and round that off, bend into a about a 10mm halve loop (experiment) make it about 8" long with a handle from an old paint brush. Once you've got used to it you'll never go back to the other rubbish and you'll be able to uncouple with the stuff on the move, very satisfying
Cheers - Jim
4mm three links are very easy to make, I failed (again) in a 4mm layout attempt recently, the stuff being far too expensive (and went back to 7mm, much cheaper)
But here's the coupling jig I made;
2 bits of 2mm steel cut from an old screwdriver, 0.5mm florists wire from eBay, clamp in a vice, cut with a piercing saw, 9 links for peanuts.
For a coupling hook use some thin nickel silver or brass wire taper the end and round that off, bend into a about a 10mm halve loop (experiment) make it about 8" long with a handle from an old paint brush. Once you've got used to it you'll never go back to the other rubbish and you'll be able to uncouple with the stuff on the move, very satisfying
Cheers - Jim
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Re: Three link couplings
Thanks for that - weirdly enough I’ve just this moment finished looking at Gormo’s version - an Australian bloke who runs a ‘How to’ website.
Re: Three link couplings
I was going to suggest Gormo's idea as an option. He glues the links solid so the help with reversing and prevents buffer lock. Havent tried it yet but might in the near future!
- Walkingthedog
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Re: Three link couplings
I always glue the middle and bottom link together. Fairly standard practice I believe. Makes coupling much easier.
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