Installing track over a long bridge

[Steve M]

Would it not be just as easy to have a couple of lengths of flexitrack with the join over the plate bridge where you can still get your hands in? (I like Tinker’s idea for continuity).

[Walkingthedog]

I’ve done that in several places on my layout but with ordinary wire not braided. I must get some.

[Nokonium]

Thank you for the replies.

As I have only one joint on the bridge I have decided to solder the fish plates. I have also ordered some M2 x 6.5mm countersunk self tapping screws.

[Mountain Goat]

Not sure if it has been mentioned, but what about using the non flexible Hornby long straight? This keeps straight so you are less likely to have issues setting the track dead centre. I believe thw long straight is about 60cm long or thereabouts.

[Nokonium]

It's a thought but all my track is Peco, is mixing manufactures OK?

[Mountain Goat]

Yes, as long as the rail height is the same. If you are using code 100 track you can freely mix Hornby and Peco track in both flexible and sectional forms. You cqn also mix other makes of 00 or H0 track as long as it has the same rail height. Mind you, even with different railheights there are ways to mix them, but it usually involves packing under sleepers and soldering the rails together. Peco do make a code 75 to code 100 converter rail and also special converter railjoiners. Either method can be used. It is easier if the rail heights are the same to begin with though.

But to sum up, if you are using code 100, then it is worth looking at the Hornby long straight. (Dont confuse it with their slightly longer flexible track which looks similar). If you are using code 75 then it maybe better to stay with code 75 flexible track, but the Hornby code 100 long straight can be used with a pair of Peco converter rails if the code 75 method fails.

[Steve M]

No need to over complicate things MG. you can see from the OP’s other thread that he has used code 100 Streamline. Just use a straight edge to lay the track up against while you fix it down and th3 job is done.

[Mountain Goat]

Ah. I didn't see that. Mind you, in code 100 that Hornby long straight would be ideal as it keeps its shape.

[Steve M]

Ah. I didn't see that. Mind you, in code 100 that Hornby long straight would be ideal as it keeps its shape.

True, but would it be the same sleeper pattern and colour? Probably not an issue if the intention is to paint and weather the track but worth considering for the OP.

[Nokonium]

I understand the logic of using rigid track and I could also, if I wished, use shorted rigid Peco straights. But even at 600mm long it would be two joins. For now I will use the flexitrack that I have soldered, with a single join, and see how straight I can keep it when fixing it down. I would like to ballast all of my layout eventually but can see that that could be interesting to do across these three bridges.