Model Railway Forum

Just a thought, but one way that you could possibly solve the problem of your second-phase track needing to cross your first-phase track would be to have the second-phase track higher so that it goes over the original track on bridges. This would look very impressive and would allow you to sit back and let the trains run as there would be no danger of collisions.

If you went down that route, you might need to tweak your initial plan slightly, for example, by situating your first-phase track further from the edge of the board to allow room for later additions.

I noticed that you used to build model ships, so I'm assuming that you are a quite handy sort of person.

Like I said, just a thought. Keep us all posted and enjoy.

If you are looking for an alternative to point motors there are other options. You can buy cheaply 1.2mm stainless steel wire used by florists and run it through curtain wire which you clip on to the base board with 4mm cable clips. You can buy the stuff cheap as chips on ebay. Be careful though some sellers on ebay charge silly prices for piano wire you dont need that. it is to expencive. The cheaper Stainless works just as well. I had 2 points I could not get access under to fit point motors so I tried the push pull wire method and it works a treat.

So, today I learned that flexitrack can be used for 2nd and 3rd radius curves! I didn't realise just how flexible it is!
That simplifies things a lot. I'll get a bundle of 25 lengths, and even if that's a few more than I need it'll still be cheaper than buying assorted curves and straights for my layout.
Is it usual to solder the rail joints in addition to using fishplates? Not a problem if so - I'm OK with precision soldering.
I like Sandy's idea of using wire-in-curtain-wire to control the points. I'll give that serious thought when the time comes.
But first things first. This coming week I plan to start making and installing the two extra tables needed for my layout.
I'll try to post pictures as I go.

Soldering fishplates is not recommended as the track expands and contracts with temperature changes. Fishplates allow this expansion and contraction to happen but if they are soldered they can't take up the movement, resulting in torn up or buckled track.

Probablynot wrote: ↑Sun Mar 13, 2022 7:48 pm So, today I learned that flexitrack can be used for 2nd and 3rd radius curves! I didn't realise just how flexible it is!
That simplifies things a lot. I'll get a bundle of 25 lengths, and even if that's a few more than I need it'll still be cheaper than buying assorted curves and straights for my layout.

Just a word of caution - it's sometimes difficult to lay flexitrack in consistent curves, especially if trying to replicate 2nd radius curves with it.
Also you will probably have to cut the inner rail of your curves slightly as the inner rail is always slightly shorter than outer.
Depending on your skill levels these two factors may not be a problem for you, but maybe buy one length and try it first before buying a whole bundle.

Building a layout for the first time is a daunting task involving many new skills and I would recommend looking at Utube as you proceed through diferent parts of the build where you will find many videos about every aspects of building a layout. Utube is a mind of knowledge passed on from other modellers. Of course some are better than others.

Rog (RJ) wrote: ↑Sun Mar 13, 2022 7:57 pm Soldering fishplates is not recommended as the track expands and contracts with temperature changes. Fishplates allow this expansion and contraction to happen but if they are soldered they can't take up the movement, resulting in torn up or buckled track.

May I add, when laying track use an old credit card gap between each section of track to allow for expantion in warm weather. Gap each section after fixing it down.

To keep flexi track in the place you want it use drawing pins between sleepers to keep it in the desired position. Just be careful not to mark or gouge sleepers - been there, done that!

As little excersize do a google on track laying oo gauge and you will find loads of advice. Keep you entained fpr hours.

Assuming your layout remains the same or very similar to your original posting, to get a consistent curve, get a nail, a pencil and a length of string. Knock the nail into your board, central to the diameter of the curve (yours look almost circular), tie the string to the nail, and tie the pencil to the other end, adjust the length by winding the string around the pencil until the pencil, with the string fairly tight, is positioned between the end rails of your straight section. Just draw a line, keeping the string tight, and you will get a perfect curve. Lay your flexi track with the pencil line central between the rails, pinning down as you go. As has been said you will need to cut the track ends level when it is in place.