Model Railway Forum

Hi James - I have now had the Cobalts working since 2014 and their still going strong. If I had one criticism, I find them a little noisy. I bought them from Hattons, I recall they came in packs of ten or twelve(?), and in two separate purchases I had one in each that would not work - Hattons replaced them - no quibble. B

bulleidboy wrote: ↑Thu Sep 21, 2023 10:22 am Hi James - I have now had the Cobalts working since 2014 and their still going strong. If I had one criticism, I find them a little noisy. I bought them from Hattons, I recall they came in packs of ten or twelve(?), and in two separate purchases I had one in each that would not work - Hattons replaced them - no quibble. B

Excellent, thank you.

Well done James. Its coming together nicely.

Re point operation, I'm surprised that as you are a MERG member you're not looking at using CBUS and Servos! One third the price of Cobalts

Brian wrote: ↑Thu Sep 21, 2023 10:51 am Well done James. Its coming together nicely.

Re point operation, I'm surprised that as you are a MERG member you're not looking at using CBUS and Servos! One third the price of Cobalts :o

I am definitely aware of CBUS and servos as a point control method. I am working on a club layout that does this. However, there are two considerations affecting this here. First of all, I want this layout computer controlled, and the more sophisticated computer control software (TrainController, iTrain) does not support CBUS. JMRI does, but lacks functionality needed for reasonably easy whole layout automation. (Full automation using JMRI essentially involves writing half the automation code from the ground up in a scripting language).

I could use servos powered by LocoNet, and have still not ruled this out. There is somebody in the Netherlands, Hans DeLoof, trading as HDL who sells circuit card kits, a little like those used by MERG, to allow control of servos over LocoNet. This is a good solution, and I have used this on my N gauge layout.

However, with this layout, I am trying to optimise for time efficiency. Using servos in the way described involves building one servo control card for each 8 sets of points, building a mount from a kit (I find Dingo servo mounts to be good for this), fitting microswitches for the frog polarity switching, wiring the microswitches, adjusting the servo travel for each direction in software, and adjusting and testing the position of the microswitches for each individual turnout. By contrast, fitting a Cobalt IP Digital involves using a drilling jig to get it in the right place, attaching it, and connecting three wires (two DCC feed wires and one frog wire); configuring it is just a matter of setting the address. For the number of turnouts on this layout, the difference in time overall is potentially enormous - and spending more money to save time may well be worthwhile, not least because humans only live so long and I am rather hoping to have fun with actually using this layout at some point.

Some progress:

Laying out the track by James Petts, on Flickr

Track sticking and ballasting in progress by James Petts, on Flickr

I have started the track laying, wiring and ballasting, as advised by the baseboard builders, together rather than separately. I have put two boards together, then assemble sections of track, connect the droppers, drill the holes for droppers and point motors (I am using Cobalt IP Digital types), check that the holes line up with the droppers, put down glue, stick the track in line with the marks on the baseboards then sprinkle ballast on top.

I initially used Copydex glue, but found that this was not good for ballasting, as removing the masking tape that I had added to give it a neat edge pulled up lots of other glue/ballast with it, giving it an untidy edge. I have since tried PVA, but did not have a chance to see how this worked after having dried before going away for Christmas.

Once I get back home, I will continue working on this and test how the PVA works as against the Copydex. I may well use the Copydex in the extensive fiddle yards where ballast will not be needed.

Your are making good progress James. I pinned my track down, but used PVA for the ballast - a messy job, but looks good when dried.

bulleidboy wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2023 5:25 pm Your are making good progress James. I pinned my track down, but used PVA for the ballast - a messy job, but looks good when dried.

I shall have to see how the two techniques compare. For touching in the ballast in areas where the initial stick has not been enough, I will have to use the conventional method in any event.

Water/PVA has always worked well for me.

Walkingthedog wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2023 6:08 pm Water/PVA has always worked well for me.

Plus a drop of washing-up liquid.

Of course.