Model Railway Forum

Walkingthedog wrote: ↑Sun Sep 05, 2021 10:22 pm I reckon he puts another work mat on top of it.

I recently bought two new work mats - small and large - one sits on top of the other

bulleidboy wrote: ↑Sun Sep 05, 2021 11:08 pm

Walkingthedog wrote: ↑Sun Sep 05, 2021 10:22 pm I reckon he puts another work mat on top of it.

I recently bought two new work mats - small and large - one sits on top of the other

Are there no limits to your extravagance?

Not really railway modelling, but I had noticed that one of the wooden hinges on the lift-up section had dropped a fraction, there was a definite "bump" in the track. I have not used the "lift-up" for some years - there is still life in the old knees - so I have removed the 10mm bolt, realigned everything and inserted a 12mm bolt. This has removed the bump in the track. I'm not sure whether five or six years of variation in room temperature would have shrunk/expanded the joint at all, but for the time being we are back to normal.

IMG_1019 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr

Well done Barry another major engineering project success.

Barry, would fitting the bolt in a tube as a sleeve help to keep alignment?
That’s a very tidy piece of engineering by the way.

It was Brian - the bolts only came in 120mm length - it was slightly cheaper to buy a bag of ten than a length of 12mm threaded rod. It took longer to cut the bolt than the rest of the job.

Steve - it would, but then you need a section of steel(?) tube which will take a 10 or 12mm bolt which has a tight fit. I have added a second nut as there were a few sharp edges following the use of the hacksaw. It would be helpful if the hole in the hinge was "sleeved" during production.

Fitting sleeves would be more tricky to retrofit.

If I were doing it from the outset (and knowing that the mark I has loosened) I would use two lengths of brass tube that are a good fit one inside the other. Cut the outer sleeve flush with faces of the wooden hinge but cut the inner sleeve longer by the depth of two flat washers. Fit the inner sleeve and add the washers at each end before adding the threaded rod and nuts.
Lubricate the tubes as they have now become bearings and adjust the length of the inner tube with a file until any lateral movement has been minimised.

Alternatively lock the flap down, never leave the room and ask Mrs BB to pass scraps of food and drink to you.

Steve M wrote: ↑Tue Oct 05, 2021 7:34 pm
Alternatively lock the flap down, never leave the room and ask Mrs BB to pass scraps of food and drink to you.

Sleep - well you can do that in the chair, but toileting arrangements are a different matter altogether!

Steve - It looks like a trip to Wickes tomorrow. From your suggestion, which I understand except for why the "inner" tube would be longer than the "outer". If, with the hinge together and the outer tube in place, flush with either side of the hinge, surely if the inner tube is slightly longer, the washers will restrict the nut being tight against the washer. If the two tubes are of identical length and flush with the outer sides (both) of the hinge, the bolt will go through the washer, then the tube, washer on other side and the the nut can be threaded on. The other option might be to "glue" the two tubes, one to each piece of the hinge, so that when the two sections are brought together, one tube goes into the other and then the bolt is passed through and the nut placed on the other end. Whichever way - it's a good idea thanks. I can probably get the problem hinge off the board to work on it, rather than buy new hinges. Barry