Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
Re: Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
My uk one, was shiplap, bit more substantial, my workshop, here. Too high for me to contemplate going on the roof, these days. Mine is galvanised sheets, so should be ok, for next guy.
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Re: Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
Time to get the thread back on topic.
This is the Hornby Railroad 2721 I bought last month, a few extra details added and (I hope) enough weathering to make it look like it’s been working for a few days - now back on shed.
20181106_110324 by Steve Mumford, on Flickr
20181106_110707 by Steve Mumford, on Flickr
This is the Hornby Railroad 2721 I bought last month, a few extra details added and (I hope) enough weathering to make it look like it’s been working for a few days - now back on shed.
20181106_110324 by Steve Mumford, on Flickr
20181106_110707 by Steve Mumford, on Flickr
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
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Re: Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
The loco looks great. The crew looks as if they have their best overalls on waiting for an inspection
Great lineside detail. Is that point rodding?
Great lineside detail. Is that point rodding?
Peter
Re: Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
I agree with BB. Very delicately done, especially the first of the two photos. That side of the loco looks pretty clean on top but decidedly dirty closer to the ground. I also like the weathering on loco 80079 as seen in your Flickr photos. Did you weather that one yourself or was it professionally done? Ian Alan
Re: Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
They did get a black wash before going on duty but maybe they need a second coat? Yes that is ridding from the Wills lineside range.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
Re: Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
The top had a light dusting of smoke weathering powder before a coat I& acrylic varnish was airbrushed on.IanAlan wrote: ↑Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:25 pm I agree with BB. Very delicately done, especially the first of the two photos. That side of the loco looks pretty clean on top but decidedly dirty closer to the ground. I also like the weathering on loco 80079 as seen in your Flickr photos. Did you weather that one yourself or was it professionally done? Ian Alan
80079 is a static model (free with a magazine from some years ago) that I used as one of my practice pieces. It as my third attempt - all documented on the thread before I got distracted by a leaky shed roof.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
Re: Loco weathering - a beginner’s tale
I believe that the Hornby magazine this month has an article on loco weathering so I will be interested to see what techniques they use.
For what it’s worth, the method I have used is as follows:
A dirty black wash is applied over the loco body and dragged into vertical streaks with a wide brush as it dries.
I then set the loco running on a rolling road and apply ‘sleeper grime’ in light coats to the underframe with an airbrush. With the loco running you get an even coat on the con rods and valve gear. Wipe off the number plates and the buffer beam number with a damp cotton bud.
Once dry I then apply weathering powders with a dry brush - rust (two shades) on steps, brake gear, under the firebox, cylinders and around water filler caps. White under the firebox door (ash). Smoke on the boiler top and roof. All the powders are adjusted with a dry flat brush.
Powders will rub off if left so an all over coat of acrylic satin varnish to seal it.
I then cleaned up the con rods with a few light strokes of a fiberglass pen before giving them a coat of oily stain gloss - I also used the same to drag some ‘water’ down the sides below the filler caps.
For what it’s worth, the method I have used is as follows:
A dirty black wash is applied over the loco body and dragged into vertical streaks with a wide brush as it dries.
I then set the loco running on a rolling road and apply ‘sleeper grime’ in light coats to the underframe with an airbrush. With the loco running you get an even coat on the con rods and valve gear. Wipe off the number plates and the buffer beam number with a damp cotton bud.
Once dry I then apply weathering powders with a dry brush - rust (two shades) on steps, brake gear, under the firebox, cylinders and around water filler caps. White under the firebox door (ash). Smoke on the boiler top and roof. All the powders are adjusted with a dry flat brush.
Powders will rub off if left so an all over coat of acrylic satin varnish to seal it.
I then cleaned up the con rods with a few light strokes of a fiberglass pen before giving them a coat of oily stain gloss - I also used the same to drag some ‘water’ down the sides below the filler caps.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
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