New baseboard top?

[Richard]

The main baseboard top consists of 5mm plywood topped with Sundeala. This have proved perfectly satisfactory over the past years. However I’ve installed peco point motors attached to the underside of the points for which I have made substantial openings in the baseboard. I now realise that the wiring would be simpler and more reliable if I useCobalt motors. However this might be compromised because the large openings will mean that affixing the Cobalt, which require only a small opening, might be difficult. I’m wondering whether replacing the baseboard tops would be best and, as it were, starting again. As usual I’m looking for a simple way forward. Any thoughts welcome.

I’m wondering whether to patch in some plywood underneath to cover the openings.

[Brian]

Hi
I assume you have cut a large rectangle hole under the point for the PL10 motor? I think I would try and patch the hole if possible with some similar thickness ply cut carefully to fit into the aperture and PVA woodworking glue in place. Patching the underside may result in too much depth of baseboard? But could be possible. Replacing the baseboard tops would be expensive.
You may find the Cobalt motor is able to span the existing hole as they have a reasonably large footprint.

[Richard]

Thanks. Of course. I don’t know why I didn’t think that the obvious way forward is to fill the holes with similar depth plywood glued into place into which the Cobalt motors might be screwed from underneath, and then, as it were to start again drilling the appropriate diameter opening for the operating wire using the Cobalt templates. Thanks.

[Richard]

That’s why this forum is so valuable.

Having given up various other responsibilities I’m thinking seriously about what else I might do and joining a model railway clubs one of those. The Bognor club is not so far an I think that the stimulus they might provide would be useful.

[RAF96]

A standard metal insertion repair to an airframe in the old days of ‘wing it for another trip’ was to open out the damage to a regular shaped hole and then make a plate to fit in that hole secured by a riveted on perimeter strap.

Hence clean out the existing point motor hole and make a patch to fit in it, then glue a window frame shaped securing strap onto it and the base board. Make sure the hole in the window frame is large enough to mount your new point motor footprint without obstruction.

A bit like this example of an insertion repair but in wood without the rivets.
https://images.app.goo.gl/zAzRWWDB5E1k86NH8

[Hound Dog]

...... or alternatively whack in some wood filler, let it dry, then sand and drill a new hole - simples !

As Brian previously stated you might find the cobalt base bridges the hole as they are quite wide and come with a sticky mounting pad to aid fitment before you drill holes for the retaining screws........ I drilled a 10mm hole to give plenty of clearance for the point actuating arm and this also means you don’t have to be supercritical in achieving the exact centre when struggling underneath the baseboard.

Hope this helps simplify the task ahead....

[bulleidboy]

Before mounting Cobalts, I made a template of the footprint of the Cobalt for use under the baseboards. It was easier to slide that about than the Cobalt, especially when marking the screw holes on the underside of the board.