Gaugemaster

[Chilly]

Hi

After returning to trains after a year out (see welcome page for disastrous decision for previous sale) I have ordered some trains based on those at NYMR namely those below but I will be sticking to an all out DC track.

Bachmann -76079
Bachmann - 80135
Bachmann - 80136
Hornby 60007 - part of centenary pack to come around summer

The Green Knight will follow the above at a later date.

I haven't got any track yet, well I think 60007 comes with an oval which I will extend as soon as possible.

I am purchasing around 12 rolling stock from Oxford Rail as they look good for the price and getting another couple of Gresley coaches to go with the centenary set.

After researching it appears that the controller that comes with the set is pants so I am going to get a Gaugemaster, phew now to the questions.

I was considering the Q 4 as at some stage, and depending what I can sneak by the wife, I would like to have 3- 4 tracks running but this could be a little way off.

Is the slowest speed on the Gaugemaster Q4 a very slow crawl?

and

I may look at the 3 controller with the simulator function and wondering how much slower is it using the brake function compared to the normal control?

Final question from a newbie which would you go for the 3 plus sim or the 4?

Thanks Chilly

[Mountain Goat]

Either with or without the similator a low speed crawl is achieveable. The limit being more with the locomotive rather then the controller. Yes, it is possible to have a loco that draws a very low current so the first setting on the controller is a sudden start, but from my experience of Gaugemaster controllers, I don't recall any of my models doing this, as the lowest speed setting is very low indeed.
Having a similator is more of a personal preference as is going for a triple or quadriple controller. You may save money by doing this, but (Assuming you have a track plan to control three or four trains at once, e.g. three or four loops), my personal preference is to build a nice control panel and fit two single controllers which allow some breathing space between them and also use one or two hand held controllers. My reasoning is that when more then one person is running trains and trying to use a double, triple or quadriple controller, everyone is in the way of each other. The reason for one or two to be handheld is one can plug them in different places and the leads give a little flexibility... Useful for shunting if one's train has stalled on the other side of the layout. Just have an extra socket or two and one can walk over and while operating the controller give it a prod. Saves running back and fore to a fixed position.
About having a similator. It starts off being a fun gadget, but after a while I find I rarely bothered with it and therefore only used the single speed knob part of it. So to be honest, having just a single speed knob and a switch for direction is all one needs, or better still, for shunting, a single speed knob that also does the direction having a centre off position (Gaugemaster don't make these) is ideal.

If you only have a double tracked mainline layout then you only need two controllers (Or one double) as one can use cab control to cover all areas of the layout in most cases.

It is a bit about swings and roundabouts because a double, triple and quadriple controller will save money on buying single items, and of course if one buys a panel or handheld with a seperate transformer it usually costs more again (Though Gaugmaster cased transformers (Always buy cased for safety) usually have two sets of outputs so two single controllers or one double can be run from one transformer), but the luxury of having space around you while controlling trains if friends come to visit makes the extra price well worth the money.

You initial questions though regarding the minimum speed and the similator... I very much doubt you will have a problem as I never have in this regards. The only issue I have is with my simple home made controller which is not finished yet. [Note to self. Must finish what I have started!]

[Brian]

Then of course there are the excellent Morley DC train controllers! Which include a pair of hand held controller too. http://morleycontrollers.com/

[yelrow]

I have the Morley controller with the 2 Hand helds. Superb piece of kit, can totally recommend it. I also have a guagemaster. It only wins on its lifetime warranty, whereas Morley is limited. However , i have
had no need to return either. My personal preference, is the Morley.

[Chilly]

Many thanks for your replies.

I will look at your wise advice as I have been known to jump in the deep (and expensive) end a few times and try not getting carried away.

ATB Chilly

[JimRead]

Hello Chilly,

This review on Scotts pages may be of some assistance;
http://scottpages.net/ReviewOfControllers.html

Cheers - Jim

[Walkingthedog]

Hi Jim hopefully chilly has sneaked a controller past his wife since April

[JimRead]

Hello Wtd,

D'y know I never noticed the date, still nothing ventured ....

I bought a controller in about 1978 I soon realised it was rubbish, what to do? I had to learn what the components looked like and how to turn a circuit diagram into something that worked. I made all sorts from a couple of transistors to half a dozen chips in my search for something that would give me slow starts and slow running.

Up to about 5 years ago I was using a square wave pulse+feedback transistor designed by Brian Tilbury, the best I'd made so far.

Then as you do I found Scott's pages and the GM UF circuit, it's actually a generic power drill controller. It was slightly better than Brian's using spikes rather than square pulses, I've made 4, three built into layouts and one in a box as a spare.

Recently Scott came up with two more circuits as you can see on his page, I tried No3 to start with and didn't think it as good as No1 so tried No2 which is the similar to No1 but instead of using a £2.50 UJT it uses a £0.25 BC557.

I will cut this (No2) out of the matrix board and use it on my new layout.


Worst possible case;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJOXNQWUxoc

A Triang/Hornby Nellie with original motor driven by No2.

It's only 3 semiconductors, buying all the components you'd get some change out of £20. The GM UF is on special order now at £55.

Cheers and thanks for the opportunity to explain I do hope you and Chilly have a go.

Jim

[Walkingthedog]

That’s really interesting Jim thanks for posting.