Electricitying points and adding signals

[AndyH]

Hi all.
I've just about got the track working, it's DC with a Hornby hm2000 controller which has controlled and uncontrolled inputs. I also have several solenoids and black lever switches (and some yellow and green switches,)
What do I need to semi automatic points? Ie I just want to flick a switch for each point, rather than manually going to each point.
Also what signals/lights should there be at each point? Just wondering how much it'll cost to realistically model each point? I currently only have one cross over point, rest are either run around station or dead ends to shunting/goods yards is no diamonds or crossing's

Thanks Andy

[Brian]

Feed one side (one terminal) of the 16volt AC auxiliary output on the HM2000 to the middle connection on the R044 Black lever. Two wires from the front connections run out to the point motor as operation left and right feeds. The point motor has one return wire and this can link to all other point return wires and then runs back to the 16v AC other connection. Depending on point motor make the two operation wires are for Hornby point motors Red and Green and Black is the return, but for Peco and Gaugemaster motors the two operation wire colours are Red and Black with Green as the return. Just be sure you have the correct make and wire colours.

Now for the unfortunate part.... The Hornby HM2000 shares one auxiliary output - the 16v AC with one track output transformer winding and the other auxiliary output which is 12 volts DC shares the other track supply transformer. The total per output is very low in current availability and you may find that when the point lever is moved over the loco on that shared supply may stutter or halt momentarily.
Normally in this situation I would recommend adding a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) in between the 16v supply and the first lever. Only one CDU is needed for the whole layout normally. But as you're using Hornby R044 Black levers and due to their very old design, they do not work well with a CDU! The Peco PL26, is fine as too are toggle switches of the momentary contact type often referenced as (On)-Off-(On) style where the bracketed (On) cannot remain in that position when the switches lever is released it returns to the centre Off position. Alternatively two non locking press to make push buttons per point can be used, as too can Stud and Probe selection.
ON NO ACCOUNT USE ANY OTHER HORNBY LEVER WITH SOLENOID POINT MOTORS Only the Black lever R044 can be used.

!00% of what you're asking is on one of my three Electrical pages if its of help?... https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical_Page_1.html

[AndyH]

Thanks Brian, hopefully your book should be arriving Thursday, being impatient The website didn't display properly for me on my mobile and not tried the pc yet.
The setup is getting there slowly.
I found some home signals too, not sure where to place them and eventually I think I would like block lights.
Made a tunnel out of drain pipe and 4 track station from a shoe box to give an idea what'll look like.

1596559899241309153180504469246.jpg

Thanks Andy

[Brian]

Hi
Unfortunately, due to the huge amount of data on my web site its not mobile phone friendly!
Tablet or PC should be ok though

[yelrow]

Andy, presume your lift out section to allow you to get into the middle, will be at the front.

[AndyH]

Andy, presume your lift out section to allow you to get into the middle, will be at the front.

Lift out section? crawl underneath the table, bit more entertaining and excitement for the kids
I'm still reletively young (37) so not a problem yet.
Thanks Andy

[Walkingthedog]

You wait until you bash your head or catch your back as you stand up for the tenth time. There doesn’t appear to be much clearance underneath.

[AndyH]

Thanks so.much Brian, I am really greatful for the info re my controller being under powered. I do also have a black Hornby controller with a little red throttle wheel and an old gray one with a twisty red knob as the control. I am hoping to eventually set up a shunting puzzle either along the back or down one of the side with its own controller.
If the controller causes trains to stall with motors, could I add in another controller to solve this, or am best to upgrade to toggle switches with a cdu?

Tbf it's mostly old steel track which really could do with being replaced but no budget for it

[AndyH]

You wait until you bash your head or catch your back as you stand up for the tenth time. There doesn’t appear to be much clearance underneath.

it's on an old dinning table. The edges where likely to bash are covered in foam, well pipe insulation split down the middle

[Brian]

Thanks so.much Brian, I am really greatful for the info re my controller being under powered. I do also have a black Hornby controller with a little red throttle wheel and an old gray one with a twisty red knob as the control. I am hoping to eventually set up a shunting puzzle either along the back or down one of the side with its own controller.
If the controller causes trains to stall with motors, could I add in another controller to solve this, or am best to upgrade to toggle switches with a cdu?

Tbf it's mostly old steel track which really could do with being replaced but no budget for it

You could use the old Hornby controller with the red controller knob, assuming it has a separate 16v Auxiliary AC output, to just feed the point motors?
As for train control, each controller needs its own electrically separate and isolated section of track its feeding. You cannot connect two or more controllers directly to the same piece of track.
Steel track, if not kept spotlessly clean and the fishplates are in 100% condition, you will always have poor running!