Ratio SR Concrete Lamp Posts - Operational.
Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2020 6:11 pm
Ratio SR Concrete Lamp Posts - Operational.
On the old forum I explained how I converted the Ratio SR Concrete Lamp Posts into operational lamp posts. Following an exchange of posts with Brian (FB), it was decided to repeat the instructions on how to construct them on the new forum. I have seen many layouts, both at exhibitions and in the modelling press with these lamps – but they would look so much better if they were operational – now they can be.
The Southern Railway produced their concrete at Exmouth Junction Concrete Works from the 1920’s to the 1950s. They made concrete bridges, concrete platform fences, concrete sleepers, and concrete lamp posts.
You will require:
A pack of Ratio 454 SR Concrete Platform Lamps – this makes four double lamps. (Price £5 from Hattons – but check ebay – I bought for the same price as Hattons, but with free postage).
A 4.5mm drill bit – preferably one with a flat cutting edge, but with a sharp point in the middle.
A 0.05mm drill bit.
A pack (20?) Multi-colour T0402 pre-soldered micro SMD LED’s – Bulb size 1mm x 0.5mm – Choose warm white. These are usually priced at about £5-£7 a pack.
IMG_0734 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
This is not a difficult job but does requires a degree of patience.
Start by drilling out the lamp shade, I used a Bosch drill/driver with variable speed. I had a piece of 12mm plywood in which I drilled a small (2-3mm) hole, in which I placed the lampshade – bottom up – and held it in place with a pair of pliers while I drilled. The shades do have a central “dimple” which does help in placing the “point” of the 4.5mm drill bit – with the drill turning slowly, you will see white shards of plastic curl up. The hole does not need to be deep – 2mm max. With this job done, you should have a shade which now looks like a proper lamp shade rather than a blob of white plastic. As the drill bit had a fine sharp point, it left a small “dimple” in the bottom of the hole you have just drilled. Using that as a guide, use the .05mm drill bit, drill up through the top of the lamp. I found this was a little “hit and miss” – sometimes the hole was perfectly central, another time the drill bit came out through the side – this does not matter too much as the wires from the LED are so fine a dab of paint will hide the hole. Another way of improving the centralisation of this small hole is to place a tube (metal tube – brass?) that is just long enough to cover the top of the shade, it needs to be a tight fit - and drill down from the top – if nothing else, it helps keep the plastic together when drilling.
Thread the wires (two) up through the lamp shade and secure with a dab of glue – I have used all types (Superglue, PVA, Liquid Poly)– it just needs to hold the bulb in place at the bottom of the 2mm hole you drilled.
The shades in real-life (see Corfe Castle Station) are opaque glass – so no need to paint, but you should paint the bulb-holder(?) – I painted mine SR Chrome Green (Precision Paints).
Now attach the lamp shade to the lamp post. I used a minute spot of Superglue (Wilco – eight tubes for a £2 – may even have been £1?). Try to position the shade so that the wires can be glued along the arm of the post. Carefully glue the wires along the arm as far as the central post. When this is dry, run a bead of glue down the post – if you look very carefully you will see the very slightest indentation running down the length of the post – use that side for the wires – try to keep the wires taught while the glue sets. If building a “twin” lamp post repeat the above procedure – trying not to have the wires crossing each other too much.
Hopefully, you will now have a finished lamp – a couple of coats of Railmatch Concrete paint will hide the wires running along the arms and down the post.
The bulbs operate from a 12v supply with resistor to each bulb. I run the power supply through an on/off voltage regulator (dimmer switch??) – about £2 from ebay.
The cost worked out at about £1.50 per lamp.
If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. BB/Barry
The finished lamps in operation -
IMG_0326 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
100_0566 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
On the old forum I explained how I converted the Ratio SR Concrete Lamp Posts into operational lamp posts. Following an exchange of posts with Brian (FB), it was decided to repeat the instructions on how to construct them on the new forum. I have seen many layouts, both at exhibitions and in the modelling press with these lamps – but they would look so much better if they were operational – now they can be.
The Southern Railway produced their concrete at Exmouth Junction Concrete Works from the 1920’s to the 1950s. They made concrete bridges, concrete platform fences, concrete sleepers, and concrete lamp posts.
You will require:
A pack of Ratio 454 SR Concrete Platform Lamps – this makes four double lamps. (Price £5 from Hattons – but check ebay – I bought for the same price as Hattons, but with free postage).
A 4.5mm drill bit – preferably one with a flat cutting edge, but with a sharp point in the middle.
A 0.05mm drill bit.
A pack (20?) Multi-colour T0402 pre-soldered micro SMD LED’s – Bulb size 1mm x 0.5mm – Choose warm white. These are usually priced at about £5-£7 a pack.
IMG_0734 by Barry Clayton, on FlickrThis is not a difficult job but does requires a degree of patience.
Start by drilling out the lamp shade, I used a Bosch drill/driver with variable speed. I had a piece of 12mm plywood in which I drilled a small (2-3mm) hole, in which I placed the lampshade – bottom up – and held it in place with a pair of pliers while I drilled. The shades do have a central “dimple” which does help in placing the “point” of the 4.5mm drill bit – with the drill turning slowly, you will see white shards of plastic curl up. The hole does not need to be deep – 2mm max. With this job done, you should have a shade which now looks like a proper lamp shade rather than a blob of white plastic. As the drill bit had a fine sharp point, it left a small “dimple” in the bottom of the hole you have just drilled. Using that as a guide, use the .05mm drill bit, drill up through the top of the lamp. I found this was a little “hit and miss” – sometimes the hole was perfectly central, another time the drill bit came out through the side – this does not matter too much as the wires from the LED are so fine a dab of paint will hide the hole. Another way of improving the centralisation of this small hole is to place a tube (metal tube – brass?) that is just long enough to cover the top of the shade, it needs to be a tight fit - and drill down from the top – if nothing else, it helps keep the plastic together when drilling.
Thread the wires (two) up through the lamp shade and secure with a dab of glue – I have used all types (Superglue, PVA, Liquid Poly)– it just needs to hold the bulb in place at the bottom of the 2mm hole you drilled.
The shades in real-life (see Corfe Castle Station) are opaque glass – so no need to paint, but you should paint the bulb-holder(?) – I painted mine SR Chrome Green (Precision Paints).
Now attach the lamp shade to the lamp post. I used a minute spot of Superglue (Wilco – eight tubes for a £2 – may even have been £1?). Try to position the shade so that the wires can be glued along the arm of the post. Carefully glue the wires along the arm as far as the central post. When this is dry, run a bead of glue down the post – if you look very carefully you will see the very slightest indentation running down the length of the post – use that side for the wires – try to keep the wires taught while the glue sets. If building a “twin” lamp post repeat the above procedure – trying not to have the wires crossing each other too much.
Hopefully, you will now have a finished lamp – a couple of coats of Railmatch Concrete paint will hide the wires running along the arms and down the post.
The bulbs operate from a 12v supply with resistor to each bulb. I run the power supply through an on/off voltage regulator (dimmer switch??) – about £2 from ebay.
The cost worked out at about £1.50 per lamp.
If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. BB/Barry
The finished lamps in operation -
IMG_0326 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr100_0566 by Barry Clayton, on Flickr
. I am in the early stages (still) of my lay-out and appreciate the guides like this by someone who has done it, worn the tea shirt etc. Specially the images, they say so much.