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Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:30 pm
by ajcooper4
Only just came across this device. If my peco micro switches become unreliable - they are not the most robust pieces of equipment - could I do a straight swap by disconnecting the peco micros and solder in the Autofrog? It looks like there are no physical moving parts on these which may be better in the long run.
Any thoughts please? Thank you.
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:45 pm
by Steve M
Yes, a straight swap. Easy instructions and, as I use them successfully, they must be foolproof.
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:46 pm
by Brian
Only moving part is the relay contacts.
As stated, they do what's on the tin!
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:45 pm
by ajcooper4
I don't see any reason why I can't run peco microswitches on some points and the DCC008 on others concurrently. Any further thoughts?
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 2:03 pm
by Steve M
That will be OK.
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 5:48 pm
by Tinker
You could run pure electronic autofrogs, there are no moving parts and come in 1, 2 and 6 units the 2 and 6 unit kit can also do reverse sections, or on the 6 section unit mix reverses and frog juicers (Autofrog)......i have quite a few and there very good....
http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/ ... icers.html
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 5:54 pm
by Steve M
True Tinker, you could, but they are also twice the price.
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 6:49 pm
by Tinker
Just depends how much people want to spend...you get what you pay for....
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2018 7:06 pm
by Mike Parkes
Not read of anyone having problems with the DCC80
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 5:35 pm
by ajcooper4
I had a further thought about the DCC80 and keen to 'test' my thinking on you experts!
I am having a £$%^&* of a job lining up my final point - in a siding to a locomotive shed. The issue is a perfect line up to throw the peco micro switch sufficiently far to change polarity. The motor throws the points fine but for this particular location the micro switch is the issue and it's very annoying! I am thinking this: remove peco microswitch, refit point motor, solder in DCC80 (I don't think it needs a physical connection to the point like the peco micro switch???). Then the points will continue to throw ok and I don't have the awkwardness of lining this one up to throw the micro switch to change the polarity.
Is my logic sound or have I missed someting please?
Thanks for all of your help as always.