Model Railway Forum

Hello,

My son and I partaking in our first model railway. He as agreed to give up his bedroom (if he ever tidies it) for the track and I have bought him a raised bed to allow for maximum space.

What we are proposing for size is effectively a 6' 6" by 5' area. I was going 6' by 6' but this is a bit big. As it will be up against a wall I will need to have it built around a central hole that he can pop up in to control and reach the back. The hole will be a 2 foot square so the 'run' will be 1.5 feet wide on two sides and 2 foot on the short sides.

I'm pretty happy with the materials we are going to use to make this (9mm ply,etc) but was looking for thoughts from you seasoned vets on things to think about.

We are thinking of building a harbour scene so one of the 2' sides will have a harbour shaped section cut out, board will be stuck below and then filled with epoxy for the water. We've done something similar on WW2 Dioramas with great effect.

I have found a plan in the latest Peco magazine we are going to copy so have an idea for layout.

Any thoughts or ideas greatly received

Dave & Luke

I do not know how old your son is or how big his bedroom is but my experience is that teens tend to need more space as they get older, so you might want to consider alternatives.

If sticking with your plan with a 6’ X 5’ with a central hole, I would consider a lift out section. Whilst running trains might involve
one entry and exit whilst building the layout it could become tiresome having to enter and exit crawling through. Of course on the positive side that process could be deemed exercise.

As for alternatives, you might consider a foldaway layout and Brian has a few examples in his book. N-gauge tends to be better for this type as generally scenery and buildings tend to be lower and can be accommodated in the way the layout is folded.

A layout that can be lifted out of the way is another alternative. I know of ones built in garages where the owner has used a pulley system to lift his layout to make room for a car, there is at least one company making such a system but their name escapes me for now. I also know of one modeller who made a lift up layout in a room and even incorporated the room lighting system into the underside of the layout, this being much easier to do these days with low voltage LED systems. The beauty of the alternatives is that your son may not have to change his bed so one less expense, besides as they get older clambering up a bunk type bed loses its appeal.

Richard

Thank you Tricky Dicky,

We're doing this for his 11th birthday, next Friday. I didn't think to much into the future, getting caught up in the moment

Thanks for the thoughts.

Hi
The main thing with any baseboard is to remember its the foundations of the railway! If its poorly made and can flex, anything fitted onto it will become loose or move and scenery may well fail to hold too! Much like your house foundations If they are poor the house walls will crack and become unstable!

9mm ply is an ideal board thickness, but ensure the underneath supporting timber framing is at least 44mm x 21mm (2" x 1") PSE fitted narrow edge to baseboards underside. You can use deeper and narrower timber if wished, such as 69mm x 18mm (3 " x 3/4"). Make cross bracing timbers spaced between 400mm (15") centres to a maximum of 500mm (18"). I PVA glue all joints and use panel pins to hold the ply onto the bracing timbers and butt joint and screw all bracing timbers together. Cutting the timber ends square is probably the most challenging carpentry thing! A mite block or chop saw helps. Pre drill pilot holes for all woodscrews to help prevent timber splitting.

Some ideas here... https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Layout_Building.html and ... https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Hints-&-Tips.html Blowing own trumpet now!

That’s great information Brian.

I’ve built a fair amount of bespoke furniture in my time, just finished a built in bookcase with false wall for a TV for my daughter. I really enjoy all the planning and working out solutions. My son wants the front edges of his baseboard to be rounded as he’s concerned about bumping into the points. I might try and match the angle of the outmost curve of the track, don’t know what that is at the moment yet.

I’ll have a read though your site and hope you don’t mind if I ask questions on here.

Dave&Luke

By the age of 11 my son had lost all interest in the model railway, so I continued myself, be prepared he may not want it in his bedroom long term.

Thanks, if he does decide he doesn’t want it that will be it as we don’t have anywhere else to put it.
It would be a shame if he gives up after a short while but if you don’t try…
Why I’m going big on this is that I believe it’s not a passing fad, he’s really interested in modelling and have a natural talent for it, he’s very creative and has great ideas.
Time will tell

Railway modelling is a very creative hobby and encompasses so many skills - planning, carpentry, electrics, painting. There’s always something to do.

I would be inclined to build the baseboards as modules that bolt together to form the outer ring, maybe 18” wide and make two 4’6” long and the other two 3’6” long. When mounted in a succession of L shapes you will get a 6’x5’ board with a 2’ hole in the middle. You may need filets in the corners of the hole so the curved track is not too close to the hole or have a removable trapdoor in the centre.
This method of construction would make it easier to dismantle if his tastes change but still allow storage without damage in case he comes back to it.
Also easy to extend should extra space become available.

Thanks Steve M,

After looking through Brian’s website I am starting to think about a modular board.

Food for thought.