Mountain Goats Narrow Gauge Delights.
Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2024 5:48 pm
I am slowly building up some waggons. These are made using my simple H frame chassis design made from lollypop sticks. (Popsicle sticks).
The basic idea is to double the width of the lollypop stick to form it into thicker parts, and use it to form a letter H for the main part of the chassis frame.
The parts are then filed to size, and then U shaped slots are either filed or cut into the underside to accept the wheels. (One needs metal axled wheels for chassis of this type. The wheels themselves can be plastic or metal).
The wheels are the standard 00 gauge 12.5mm (Or 12.6mm) wheels, so are easily obtainable as spares. I used runny superglue to stick the wood together as I personally found the wood glue I had bought not really strong enough for this design, even after 24 hours. Wood does draw the superglue into the wood, so one may need to run a little extra glue down inside the cracks, but it does join well. I have not experimented with other glues, as superglue can be found at good prices if one looks around.
A hint. If one makes a mistake and cuts a slot too deep, fill with toilet tissue and add a few drops of superglue. File back and one has a strong quick fix! (Do be aware that the chemical reaction of the superglue does give off a great deal of heat while doing this, but it does work and gives a very solid result.
I included the above as some modellers may find this useful. There is also the superglue and baking soda idea, as well as superglueand resin powder (Resin filings) if one is working with resin castings.
Back to the chassis...
A V shaped grove is filed down the centre of the H part of the chassis on the top surface lengthways so a paperclip can be used to hold the wheels in place.
Excess paperclip is cut off and the main structure of the chassis is ready as the stiff wire holds its position so that the wheels can't fall out.
Then bufferbeams are added... Those using tension lock couplings will find that half lollypopstick-width bufferbeams allow one to glue in the NEM pocket couplings (Minus the NEM pockets themselves). Those like me who make our own couplings can deepen the centre of the bufferbeam to hold central buffers (Which I will do later) or leave the bufferbeams at half height to suite ones preferences.
There we have the basic H-chassis structure in place, where we can turn to making the rest of the waggons at a later date.
The basic idea is to double the width of the lollypop stick to form it into thicker parts, and use it to form a letter H for the main part of the chassis frame.
The parts are then filed to size, and then U shaped slots are either filed or cut into the underside to accept the wheels. (One needs metal axled wheels for chassis of this type. The wheels themselves can be plastic or metal).
The wheels are the standard 00 gauge 12.5mm (Or 12.6mm) wheels, so are easily obtainable as spares. I used runny superglue to stick the wood together as I personally found the wood glue I had bought not really strong enough for this design, even after 24 hours. Wood does draw the superglue into the wood, so one may need to run a little extra glue down inside the cracks, but it does join well. I have not experimented with other glues, as superglue can be found at good prices if one looks around.
A hint. If one makes a mistake and cuts a slot too deep, fill with toilet tissue and add a few drops of superglue. File back and one has a strong quick fix! (Do be aware that the chemical reaction of the superglue does give off a great deal of heat while doing this, but it does work and gives a very solid result.
I included the above as some modellers may find this useful. There is also the superglue and baking soda idea, as well as superglueand resin powder (Resin filings) if one is working with resin castings.
Back to the chassis...
A V shaped grove is filed down the centre of the H part of the chassis on the top surface lengthways so a paperclip can be used to hold the wheels in place.
Excess paperclip is cut off and the main structure of the chassis is ready as the stiff wire holds its position so that the wheels can't fall out.
Then bufferbeams are added... Those using tension lock couplings will find that half lollypopstick-width bufferbeams allow one to glue in the NEM pocket couplings (Minus the NEM pockets themselves). Those like me who make our own couplings can deepen the centre of the bufferbeam to hold central buffers (Which I will do later) or leave the bufferbeams at half height to suite ones preferences.
There we have the basic H-chassis structure in place, where we can turn to making the rest of the waggons at a later date.