Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Thanks Steve - I do try. I am also thinking that the relays will sense a short and change polarity and, therefore, by definition, the 'R' pads can be soldered into either BUS as it will be, to use a nautical term, 'self righting'?!
I am also wondering why I ever bothered with PL13s - ever! Point motors so much easier to mount and much more forgiving without them fitted.
I am also wondering why I ever bothered with PL13s - ever! Point motors so much easier to mount and much more forgiving without them fitted.
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
We all have those eureka moments.
I started off trying to use the switch built in to Seep PMs. I very quickly changed them to the DCC80s and never looked back.
Yes they are ‘self-righting’ so you should be well away now.
I started off trying to use the switch built in to Seep PMs. I very quickly changed them to the DCC80s and never looked back.
Yes they are ‘self-righting’ so you should be well away now.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
My DCC80 relays arrived today. No time to get to work this evening but I'll let you know how it goes. Fingers crossed!
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Happy New Year to you all!
Not had a lot of time to work on my layout but finally got some more track/points laid and some wiring done. I have to say fitting point motors without the peco microswitches is so much easier!
I have my DCC80 relays soldered up and ready to fit but I am wondering about the best way to fit under the layout - physically I mean. I have a terminal block with two BUS wires and the feed from the frog - ready to receive the three soldered wires from my DCC80. As you see from the picture the wires are soldered to the same side as the other soldered joints and I don't want to damage any joints in fixing it under the layout. Has anyone done this and how did you fix it please? It's a very light unit but I don't want it left dangling. I wondered about hot glue or maybe (low tech) some blutack on the relay itself.
Any thoughts please?
Not had a lot of time to work on my layout but finally got some more track/points laid and some wiring done. I have to say fitting point motors without the peco microswitches is so much easier!
I have my DCC80 relays soldered up and ready to fit but I am wondering about the best way to fit under the layout - physically I mean. I have a terminal block with two BUS wires and the feed from the frog - ready to receive the three soldered wires from my DCC80. As you see from the picture the wires are soldered to the same side as the other soldered joints and I don't want to damage any joints in fixing it under the layout. Has anyone done this and how did you fix it please? It's a very light unit but I don't want it left dangling. I wondered about hot glue or maybe (low tech) some blutack on the relay itself.
Any thoughts please?
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
I fixed mine with a small screw through the predrilled hole.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Now my frog juicers (DCC80) are fitted all seems to be running well. Just the occasional small clicking noise which I assume are the relays resetting?
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
That’s right, glad they are working well.
"Not very stable, but incredibly versatile."
Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
My Biggest Fear Is That When I Die My Wife Will Sell My Model Railway For What I Told Her It Cost me
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Re: Gaugemaster DCC80 Autofrog
Are you going to cover/protect all the wires with a pelmet?
Nurse, the screens!
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