Woodland Scenics - Realistic Water???

[rynd2it]

Hi,

Our layout has a lake which is almost 15" in diameter and we were looking for a water effect to pour into it. Woodland Scenics Realistic Water seemed to be a good match and having watched their on-line videos seemed easy to use. I bought a bottle and then contrary to normal practice I read the instructions for use. Not a verbatim quote but here are some salient points:

a) Needs 6 hours at 70F to cure
b) does NOT set hard, items placed on it will mark and stick
c) does NOT set hard, do not store baseboard on its side or vertical as it will flow!!!
d) does NOT set hard, dust etc will stick.

This is all confirmed by reading the FAQs on the manufacturers website. To me this seems totally unsuitable for a portable layout in a Club Room that is only heated during Club Nights and odd days. Fortunately our supplier will refund it so no loss.

So, anyone actually used it under these sort of conditions and what alternatives are recommended?

Thanks

David

[paul1066]

Iv'e bought some for use on my layout but won't be using it until Spring / summer this year - fortunately on a layout that's not going anywhere (I hope)

[Steve M]

David, when I did my harbour and canal on the N gauge ‘Shaddeholme’, I used a clear casting resin, the sort of stuff you see encasing flowers and insects for display.
I found that it can be tinted using Humbrol weathering pigments at the mixing stage and it still remains clear enough to see any underwater details eg anchor chains.
You do need to build it up in fairly thin layers - actually this helps to judge the curing time so that the final layer can be rippled with a stiff brush.

[rynd2it]

David, when I did my harbour and canal on the N gauge ‘Shaddeholme’, I used a clear casting resin, the sort of stuff you see encasing flowers and insects for display.
I found that it can be tinted using Humbrol weathering pigments at the mixing stage and it still remains clear enough to see any underwater details eg anchor chains.
You do need to build it up in fairly thin layers - actually this helps to judge the curing time so that the final layer can be rippled with a stiff brush.

I had actually thought of that as I have used it before for an art object. Seems I can get 1kg (900ml resin) for about £15 and that would be enough it seems for several layers.

Thanks

[shroomy]

This stuff is highly recommend
https://deluxematerials.co.uk/collectio ... ater-350ml
https://youtu.be/liIMs1-40dg
Used this and it is great

[footplate1947]

Hello Shroomy yes that stuff is good but you can make nice job with clear varnish as well, and varnish is not £27 for small bottle.
Why as soon as something is found to be useful for the railway modeller the price goes through the roof. The chemists must be rubbing their hands together having a field day.

[shroomy]

Hello Shroomy yes that stuff is good but you can make nice job with clear varnish as well, and varnish is not £27 for small bottle.
Why as soon as something is found to be useful for the railway modeller the price goes through the roof. The chemists must be rubbing their hands together having a field day.

Hi john
Probably the same reason that a lais decoder is made and along come Lenz to make a better one

[footplate1947]

No good Dave talking to me about DCC and decoders ect; as you know Dave, I am DC and at my age will not be changing .
All I know about DCC is I thought it was an American from Washington with a stammer. You seem to have missed my point about about the modelling water.

[Chops]

I've used the WS stuff that you have to melt, and the WS stuff that pours from a bottle. In both cases, the set time took so long that both
permeated the plaster cloth and required repeated dousings to achieve a small effect.

By accident I discovered that Clear Gorilla Glue sets up quickly, without annonying bubbles and dries firmly, but retains a degree of flexibility
allowing it to be part of any modular set up.

[footplate1947]

That sounds like good tip will keep that little tip in mind. I am planning a little river and bridge on my latest plan. I have used clear vanish in the past it works but you have to do it in several layers or it can wrinkle if you put it on too thick. Dont forget to paint on details like weed and under water stuff before you vanish it. Hardest part is doing running water. still water is easier. No water is easy. My favourite way with running water is to put all the lumps and bumps of the stones in the river then vanish over the top. Now the realty hard bit is doing the white water. Must admit I have always given that a miss.