Peco SL-E197 point modification

[alexjhill1987]

Hello all, I have been trying to find out how to modify the peco short wye point for dcc operation.


This is it next to the short right hand point I am also wiring up, that has been easy to find out and do.
The problem comes from on the underside.


as can be seen here is where the two bonds were which have been cut by me on the right hand point

this wye point doesnt have that to do so I am very lost and a scouring of google for the last 2 hours has turned up nothing.

any electrics wizards able to help me.

[Ron S]

In fact the modifications work well for both DC & DCC.
In the case of the small Y and I have used a couple of them, is to create the gap in the fixed part of the blades by using a dremel/razor saw between the frog crossing and the hinge on the blades, then solder from stock rails to fixed blade between the gap & hinge.
One of my Y's, I did this, the other , I cut gaps both sides of the frog after laying and ballasting making a dead frog of 1" long - my diesels work OK over this.
My new Y to be installed, I won't modify it, just switch the frog and I do not expect any problems as the gaps for blades & stock rails at the tiebar, appear to be larger than the similar gaps on the 3 way asymmetrical turnout so I do not expect any unexpected B2B problems causing short circuits

[alexjhill1987]

Thanks, so really I am ok to leave them as is?
I do have a razor saw though so may be do one and see what it's like.
The standard left and right points I have modified.

[Tricky Dicky]

That Wye point looks awfully tight to modify. If you use the sleeper gap where you can see both stock rails and closure rails to do the bonding then if you use the next sleeper gap for the cuts you will have to cut through the wire that links the vee and closure rails in effect isolating one of the closure rails. Although pickup should be off the bonded closure rail and the vee rails having the split closure rails electrically bonded to the vee rails can only help. I have modified N-gauge points before but never a Wye in either scale, I think I would be tempted to do the cuts and bonding in the same sleeper gap. I would first solder the bonding wires on and then cut the rails on the correct side of the bonding.

Richard

[Brian]

By using a Jewellers Piercing saw (Cuts a much finer gap in the rails than any razor saw or Dremel) you can slice through both closure rails between sleepers, but IMO on the small Y electrofrog point its really not worth the hassle!
Just switch the frog polarity and fit two IRJs to the ends of the Vee rails

[Mike Parkes]

I have modified a small Y but it needed a rail gluing back in place. You do not need to modify points, I used unmodified points on a dcc exhibition layout without problem in terms of the objectives of the modification, but it is advisable and on a new corner board I have built to use 2/3rds of that layout at home I have done the modification. Even modified Peco points have a weakness in that the section of the switch rail that moves can lose conductivity between the pivot/joiner and the stock rail due to the poor contact made with the stock rail and the pivot/joiner losing conductivity. A properly designed point (Tillig for example) has a continuous switch rail so not suffering the Peco Problem.