Plasticard tips?

[JohnSmithUK]

I have procured some of the above, to start making a scratch built warehouse/factory. Luckily the sheets are long enough to not require joins, but bracing will be nessessary at points.

Has anyone any hints and tips from practical use on this lovely material? I have had a browse on the internet, but real world help is useful too.

Thanks in advance.

[brian1951]

No1. A good steel ruler. No2. Very sharp blades for your craft knife ( dont buy cheap blades ) No3. Balsa wood is good enough for braces or thicker plasticard. Lolly pop sticks or coffee stirrers come in handy too for roof braces.

[JohnSmithUK]

Thanks Brian.

[Mallard53]

To brace the interior corners of buildings I cut right-angled triangles of plasticard stuck in place with Metpak (or similar). Although Metpak is brilliant at bonding plasticard it's fumes aren't pleasant and if you leave the top off the bottle it will evaporate very quickly - I virtually lost half a bottle over night having forgot to replace the cap.

[JohnSmithUK]

To brace the interior corners of buildings I cut right-angled triangles of plasticard stuck in place with Metpak (or similar). Although Metpak is brilliant at bonding plasticard it's fumes aren't pleasant and if you leave the top off the bottle it will evaporate very quickly - I virtually lost half a bottle over night having forgot to replace the cap.

Thanks mallard

[Mountain Goat]

If one needs to curve plasticard to make a curved roof, boil some water and dip the plasticard in the water for a little while. Then gently form the desired curve. This may take a few attempts. I cutved the roof of my loco number 3 in this manner.

[JohnSmithUK]

If one needs to curve plasticard to make a curved roof, boil some water and dip the plasticard in the water for a little while. Then gently form the desired curve. This may take a few attempts. I cutved the roof of my loco number 3 in this manner.

Thanks MG

[JohnSmithUK]

First ever play with this stuff.

I cut a small edge off of a sheet of 20 thou.

Some balancing to hold things still, and hey presto.

Seems strong.

When using for real, more support, or a jig of some sort to hold everything perfectly square.

I like this building material.

Evidence below.

[Mountain Goat]

It makes an excellent building material, though usually more suitable for smaller projects. Wood is better for larger buildings as a solid structure to build onto. (I believe plasticard can warp if used on larger projects? I have not had any issues but I have used plasticard to make loco and waggon bodies, so my projects were relatively small. I believe there are ways to get around any potential warping issues.
I find the main downside is the material is not exactly cheap. Is a great material though. Ideal for the modeller.
I bought a load about 20 or more years ago and I still have lots left.

[Paul-H]

What's the best solvent to use

I have tried the following but have not been convinced I am getting a good join

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
Tamiya Limonene
Revell Contacts
Plastic Weld (but it's an old bottle so may have lost some of its potency)

99.9% Methyl Ethyl Ketone (AKA MEK)

Also have but not tried Dichloromethane

I am using the Evergreen version and although the above do glue to some extent I am not getting a strong bond, the bond I get is rather brittle and easily snapped apart (good for error correcting but not so good for model life)

Anyone got any other recommendations.

Thanks

Paul