Newbie question - DC or DCC

[Steveorchard]

Hello all

Just starting out, read books, looked online, read magazines, bought some second-hand track from eBay and about to start planning and constructing baseboard.

My question: as a complete newbie, would you recommend I set up the track as DC with a cheap basic controller, have a play and get the hang of things then convert to DCC when I've made the initial mistakes I'm sure I will make, or go straight to building everything under DCC?

Thanks for any advice.

Steve

[Brian]

Hi Steve

First, welcome to the forum.

Re track and loco feeding, there are two basic types used in the UK. DC (Analogue) and DCC (Digital)
For a beginner I would opt to go with conventional DC control. Also consider having one DC controller per loop or line if end to end.
DCC systems are more expensive and every loco needs a decoder fitting. so add around £20 to the cost of a loco for a standard non sound decoder.

With DC you control the track power - voltage alters between 0v and a nominal 12v and reverses polarity to change direction of travel One loco is normally controlled by one DC controller. But with DCC you control the loco via data sent to the decoder and track power is always on at a nominal 14ish volts. Data is sent along the rails and each decoder uses that data to act upon the instructions sent. All decoders "Listen" but only the one with the correct address number carries out the instruction sent.

[IanS]

EDIT: Brian and I responded at the same time!

AC is not a very standard system in the UK for model railway power. It is normally DC or DCC.

Older track can present problems. Points can often be insulfrog which means the power is not in the direction that the train doesn't go to. This is fine for DC but for DCC you normally have power going to both directions.

DCC locos need a decoder (chip) inside. Older locos can be converted, newer ones are much easier to convert as they generally have a socket for the decoder.

Changing from DC to DCC can prove very expensive as once you've decided to change you'll need a new power control unit and every loco will need a decoder installing before it can run on the DCC layout.

If you're starting out with no locos and little track, my feeling is that wiring it up for DCC is the best route. If you've only got one or two locos now, use them to test it with a cheap DC controller (new, or refurbished from a dealer and not from E-bay as they won't be electrical safety tested otherwise.)

Once you have the layout track laid, with new electrofrog points, then you're ready to convert.

Others will have different ideas, I'm sure!

[Steveorchard]

Thanks for that. I meant to put DC not AC!

[Tricky Dicky]

Changing from DC to DCC can prove very expensive as once you've decided to change you'll need a new power control unit and every loco will need a decoder installing before it can run on the DCC layout.

If you're starting out with no locos and little track, my feeling is that wiring it up for DCC is the best route. If you've only got one or two locos now, use them to test it with a cheap DC controller (new, or refurbished from a dealer and not from E-bay as they won't be electrical safety tested otherwise.)

Once you have the layout track laid, with new electrofrog points, then you're ready to convert.

Others will have different ideas, I'm sure!

I have to agree with Ian’s summarisation. By all means go DC perhaps as suggested by Ian with a cheap controller whilst you have just a few locos but make your mind up soon as possible which way you will jump, some DC modellers say they would love to go DCC but the costs of converting their stock would be prohibitive and that’s after you have shelled out for a DCC controller. Nothing wrong with sticking with DC and some layouts it simply is the best solution. An exhibition layout I have helped on is DC and can accommodate several Locos on it but with the best will in the world you could only have one loco in motion. DCC would allow sound decoders to be fitted so stationary locos could be heard idling but as the owner is not fond of sound DC is good enough.

Richard

[Mike Parkes]

A DC controller is still useful when using DCC so you can run non decoder fitted locos in and check they are working right before fitting a decoder. I have an oval of Kato Unitrack which for such purposes; it is designed for constant assembly and disassembly and for use on the floor.

[Mountain Goat]

I used to model at first in DC and then in 2001 I turned to DCC but in the last decade I turned to model in 7mm narrow gauge on a budget and have gone back to DC, but not just because of the cost, but because I missed the simplicity.

I do reccoment learning DC first before going for DCC if you decide on that route as it will give you a greater understanding and appreciation of what is going on. Having said that, if you want DCC to begin with, buying a DCC trainset can be a good idea.

DC or DCC is a personal decision. Some prefer to keep things nice and simple. Others love the frills and gadgets that DCC has to offer. Both are good for different reasons.

[yelrow]

or, like me, you could have both. My DC, was /is extensive, some 100 locos, so too expensive to convert. I bought a DCC set, added the odd loco, and run both. Hence, best of both worlds.

[Mountain Goat]

Good plan. Lenz used to make an electronic device where one could run trains from a DCC section straight onto a DC section and vice versa when I first went into DCC. Not heard of them since.
But normally DC and DCC sections must be kept totally separate so they don't come into contact.

I don't mean to open a can of worms (Never seen a can of worms for sale) by mentioning this.