A Problem of Flanges

[Chops]

Been out of the game for a few months, mostly chasing my tail.

Anyways, a nagging project has been to alter the flangeways on this Bachmann EZ Track (made especially for those of us who cannot draw a crooked line) to adapt it to some of this older Triang and Hornby stuff that I like to pull off the shelf from time to time. It runs quite smoothly over the point's flangeways with no issue, but these oldsters seem to grab upon the cross over flangeways (there are eight. I had a bit of an infatuation with crossings).
So, whatever is causing trouble, it would not seem to be the gauge, but perhaps the guardrails. Thus, my first effort was to see about filing them down, and this helped, but not enough for smooth running. After hours spent with an emory board, I think it is reasonable to try to remove them entirely as these guardrails, designed for a North American contour of 1/87th wheel than anything of older British. The hacksaw blade, pictured, will seem to be another Homeric effort, so will get a cut off wheel and see if I can make quick work of the offending guardrails.

[IanS]

As you probably know, the older Tri-ang track was a different height (code 124) to the modern track (code 100 - or less) and the flanges on the wheels of older Tri-ang models were larger. Replacing wheels is sometimes undertaken to enable older models to run on newer track. Some have even taking wheels to a lathe (not for the feint-hearted) to this running.

Good luck with your cutting wheel endeavours!

[Chops]

So it is the depth of the flange that may be the problem. For my luck, it traverses anywhere else, straight, curved, points, but chokes on the sturdy little diamonds. If removing the guardrails fails, I will examine flangeway depth and core it out. In fact, maybe I should be looking at a router to
sweep in thee and remove occlusive depth and width simultaneously, instead of going at this piecemeal.

Any other modern British range, as well as older range, accommodates these diamonds without fuss. And while I grasp the principle of lathing the flanges, it would require access to such a machine.

The bold, rugged complexion of the old stuff is too much fun to simply abandon.

[Steve M]

Chops, don’t use a router - uncontrollable for the fine work you are considering.
A milling machine with a fine cutting bit would be a better alternative as it is infinitely more controllable - but expensive unless you know someone who already has one.
You could conceivably make do with a milling bit held in a pillar drill and manoeuvre the crossing underneath the cutting head but again, very easy to get it wrong.

[Tricky Dicky]

If the flanges are too deep and the wheel are the type that both can be removed from the axle then there is a way to make a lathe with just a power drill.

First you need to be able to secure the power drill horizontally eg. A vice. Remove one wheel from the axle and push the axle fully into the drill chuck so the remaining wheel is tight against the jaws. Set the drill going and press the power on lock button, then simply apply a fine file to the flange to reduce the depth.

A couple of things to take care of, to avoid bending the axle is to fully insert it in the chuck with the wheel against the jaws. If the end of the jaws are bigger than the wheel then this process is not possible. You will be holding the file close to something spinning fast and if it catches will more than likely throw the file out of your hands, so a firm grip of both ends of the file and resting your arms on a sturdy surface will help control it. It goes without saying wear eye protection and ensure your sleeves are not loose either buttoned or rolled up out of the way and go at it gently. Unless you are confident you can do it safely DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROCESS.

Richard

[Chops]

Well, that would be fine, but I'd probably reduce everything to a wretched toast if I had double my current talent. I got a Dremel, found out later it didn't come with cut off wheel, so I am routing off the interior flanges as gently as I can. Ghastly, tedious work, and the little black filings are all over me, the furniture, and the cat. But, to be able to run some of that sweet old Triang it will be worth it.

[Mountain Goat]

I used a bit of a broken hack saw blade when Idis mine in the past.The only downside is soe finer scale wheel bogies may bounce on rare occasions and e-rail with the deeper flange depth, but it is an interesting learning curve when it comes to building track, which is more patence to see what is happening to the wheels and making minor adjustments than skill. (What I am saying is beginners like me to track building can do it!)