sandy wrote: ↑Tue Dec 06, 2022 10:54 am
ChopsI....I have cupboards full of Hornby locos and rolling stock and I have never had to return anything to Hornby yet. Or Bachmann or Dapol. I have dislikes like Dapol couplings falling off, but that is minor stuff and soon fixed. I would think that fixing a loose buffer is soon fixed as well. Tell you the truth sprung buffers is one of the most darft things ever fitted to some locos.They are just waiting to fall off. Thats what being a railway modeller is.
Actually I agree because sprung buffers are only any good if the buffers are going to be actually used on the model. Buffers that are there for their asthetic looks are pointless to be sprung, and my personal oppinion is they cause more asthetic issues due to oval buffers drooping at non prototypical angles then the concept of springing them solves.
If the buffers are functional to the models then by all means have them sprung, but if not, don't bother as all is going to have is extra issues!
This isn't meant to be critical, just an observation. It is easy to talk about the quality of the loco as supplied by a manufacturer but apparently it's fine to ignore the quality of the decoder and buy 'dcc fitted' locos. I don't really understand why people buy dcc fitted locos and are happy to put up with any old decoder supplied. With Dapol this will usually mean a Dapol Imperium decoder which we know is either a rebadged Lais decoder or of similar specification/quality. Why not buy 'dcc ready' and then make your own choice of decoder. It really isn't rocket science to plug in a decoder to a brand new loco (easier than changing over couplings). Having a decent quality decoder fitted to any loco can make a huge difference to how it runs which is much more important than some of the other issues raised. This is something we can control so it's worth thinking about that before you next buy a dcc fitted loco.
The only negative side of this is that a few of todays models with DCC sockets is that it can be quite a job taking the bodies off without damaging some of the finescale detailing parts.
Older models (Even the more detailed ones such as Mainline) were relitively easy to remove the bodies, and yet with DCC decoder sockets, the models have become more difficult to remove which to be honest is a bit daft, though I do understand that there have been efforts to remmedy this.
And why are there are so many types of DCC socket? What is wrong with making a standard 8pin socket with an additional multipin socket for those who use DCC sound so that if one buys a basic decoder one plugs it into the standard 8 pin, and those who wanted more can plug in a decoder that uses the 8 pin but has an additional second multipin plug so we all end up with the best of both worlds in the same way that car tow hitch sockets had the standard trailer light socket but had a secondary socket for use (If desired) specifically for use for caravan towing... Where to tow a caravan one does not neccessarily need to use the secondary socket but if one wants to run the fridge etc while one is travelling it is there. Why can't this concept be done with DCC?
I think it's more of a self confidence issue that puts some people off fitting their own decoders. I stand by what I said, it isn't a difficult job. Yes, sometimes removing a body shell can be more tricky than with others but if you follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and apply some patience it's quite manageable for anyone with a low to moderate skill level. I model in N gauge which can be seen as more fiddly and I'm not the most patient of modellers (I'm getting better though!) but I've not been beaten yet! I'd urge anyone to give it a go.
Next18 decoders have to be the easiest type to fit. In N gauge we only really have to worry about two types anyway. They are either 6 pin or N18. Luckily that means only keeping two types of spare.
Buying quality decoders isn't necessarily a more expensive option. Zimo decoders have been at the lower end of the price range and are widely applauded for their high quality motor control and range of cv functions. I guess you only know what the difference is until you try it. Compare similar locos, one fitted with a Zimo and the other with something like a Dapol Imperium and you'll see what I mean. I've currently got a couple of locos running with Train-o-Matic decoders, which aren't bad, because I couldn't get Zimos due to the current shortages but they'll be swapped ovef for Zimos as soon as they are available again. Of course, Zimo isn't the only qualty option available. Lenz is also consistently praised - but they are a little more expensive. You also need to think about what cv functions you want to use. I use, for example, abc breaking which I think is fantastic, so that narrows down my choice of decoder considerably.
If you haven't previously given thought to which decoders you are using then it's definitely worth trying out some comparisons. You may be surprised at the difference. Don't just assume that whatever a loco manufacturer fobs you off with in a 'dcc fitted' loco will be as good as it gets. If you don't have the confidence to fit decoders yourself you'll probably find someone at your local club who is willing to help. If not, then many model shops, and dcc specialist suppliers, will happily fit decoders for you for a modest fee. Also, don't forget to run your new models in which certainly makes a difference.
